Keyless entry remote transmitter not lighting up

[Phil_S]

Can you help me? On line reading is worthless. Everyone wants me to reprogram the things. Frustrated to say the least. For my 2004 Honda Civic EX both remote transmitters are not working. When I press a button, the red light should turn on. It does not. Same problem in both. So, I've gone back to the stone age. Remember when you actually had to put your key in the door lock?

Both have fresh batteries. Both used to work -- and the red light at the top used to light up. I put the meter on the batteries. Both batteries are at about 3.1V (CR 2025/3V) so I know they are good. I pried open one remote (buggered the edge, too, crap) and put my meter on the test points. I managed to find 3.1V on all of them. I'm not sure I used the TP's appropriately, but what the heck. There are 9 TP's IIRC. There 3 switches (lock, unlock, panic) and all seem to be mechanically OK, manually checked with the cover open. I also checked for continuity on the battery contacts and see 24M bridging + to -, so I figure at least they are the same.

So, what is it? I find it strange that none of the 3 switches will turn the red indicator light on. I find it strange that both remotes are suffering, particularly when you consider the spare sits in a bin and hardly ever gets used (going to wear and tear.)

How do i get the light to turn on (thinking that is the "key")?

Or am I missing something entirely?

These things are expensive to replace. I'm not included to buy a new one, as I am thinking it could be pissing in the wind. Any how could it break? It would be one thing if one switch went south, but not all 3 on both remotes.

Not amp related, but certainly electronics based. Thank you for any offerings you might have. Somehow, this topic seems perfectly appropriate for a "garage."

Phil

[JazzGuitarGimp]

I have to wonder if the problem lies at the receiving end, since both fobs exhibit the same symptoms. Perhaps the car transmits a signal back to the fob, which causes the led to light? It's a long shot, but I would be inclined to disconnect the car battery for ten to fifteen minutes to reboot the car's computer.

[Structo]

Are the fobs programmed to the car (code)?

Maybe there is a way to reset it by disconnecting the power.

[sepulchre]

Every once in awhile mine refuses to work. The last time, I had taken the key off the ring and started the car, locking it in from the outside with the fob so the car would warm up before I got off work. Ten minutes later I go out in the driving snow and the fob does nothing. The key was in the car . . . Hmm. Looked warm in there. Eventually the joke got old and it worked.

[Phil_S]

Interesting that both of you place the problem at the car unit. I was not wanting to buy into that. A few weeks ago, changing the 3V battery got it working for a few days and then...poof...nothing. It was then I went to the second one.

I appreciate that both of you are holding up the mirror, showing me what I have ignored. In reading what you say, it now makes perfect sense. It is nearly impossible for both remotes to have identical problems.

I'll have to go through that awful reset process. Also, I don't mind disconnecting the battery. The only fallout is the radio presets. I'll post a follow-up. It may be a few days. I've got a heavy schedule this week and won't want to do this in the dark.

If that doesn't do it, I'm now thinking the remote unit in the car is shot. LOL, lots to read on-line about that, too. Apparently it is a $60 part that the dealers mark up to $180 and charge you another $180 to put it in. It requires pulling the door panel. If I go there, I guess I get to buy a body tool for pulling the panel. I don't want to booger it up with a pry bar and a screw driver. Auto parts stores love to sell you this type of tool.

Thanks very much.

Phil

[LeeMo]

Phil,
Autozone/O'rielly's/Advanced Auto Parts sell replacement remotes they also have a "tester" that you hold yer remote next to and mash it. If it transmits a light goes on .
Also, google" replacement remote keyless " and you'll come up a winner. I replaced a few like that. They give instructions on coding when you get it.
As an example:
http://www.keyless-remotes.com/servlet/ ... ord+4-door
Those spring connectors for the coin batteries are bad about cold solder joints. I've had about 25% success in repairs though.
Cood Luck to ye.

LeeMo

[galtjunk]

When a remote starts to fail on me I usually find that replacing the inner rubber piece that makes the connections to the board will fix it.

Check ebay.

[Phil_S]

Galt: I opened one up with battery installed. Pressing the switches directly did not light up the LED. I appreciate what you say, but am thinking this is not it, especially when you consider both remotes failed and one was hardly used.

Lee: See above. I found inexpensive OEM replacements for $30. I don't think that will do it. If both had not failed at the same time, I would think otherwise.

I admit, the thinking about both at the same time could be wrong. It is possible both are bad. That just doesn't sit right with me.

Will ponder this more. Thank you.

[LeeMo]

As far as I know, the LED indicates power is going thru the circuit. There are two types of switches used on these things. One is a momentary flimsy-assed leaf spring that will collapse with enough pressure applied. The other is a carbon "button" pressing against gold plated contacts. These work pretty well until the carbon wears out or they get wet. I've seen the switches stick "on" and not allow them to work.
I haven't seen any use feedback from the car to light the LED.
My thoughts are that you are not transmitting either due to power issues or a bad switch. Without those you aren't powering up the transmitter and sending the binary code to the receiver. The display at Autozone/O'rielly's recieves on all frequencies that they use. It should tell you if you are getting out.
By the way. You can extend the range by holding it to your chin. It uses your body as an antenna extender.

Lee

Here's a funny story for ya'll.

I owned a car stereo / alarm shop in Greenville , Mississippi from 1980 until 2002. We had our share of colorful individuals
walk through the door pretty much on a daily basis.
One of our customers was a gentleman who looked enough like John Lee Hooker to be a brother or a cousin.
One day he came in with a problem with his alarm. My teenage son asked what the problem might be, He said."My perper don't work."
My son gave him a puzzled look. So he says, " You know..." and holds up his remote ." perp perp. My perper."
After fixing his "perper" and sending him on his way my other teenage son starts singing to the tune of "Dimples" by John Lee Hooker "My perper don't work bum bum bum bummm"

[Phil_S]

As far as I know, the LED indicates power is going thru the circuit...My thoughts are that you are not transmitting.

I think you are right about this even though I find it strange that both remote transmitters have failed. Having probed the test points on the PCB and found 3V present, what you say seems to be the only logical explanation I can find. I've got power, but can't turn on the light. The light is turned on by closing one of the switches. None of the 3 switches turns on the light. It is doubtful that all 3 switches have failed but somehow when one is bad, that is enough. I wish I could find a schematic to see just how one of these works, but none can be found. I will probably spend $30 to order a new one as I don't know what else I could do. I certainly won't be buying a used one on eBait knowing there is a finite useful life.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and guidance.

Phil

[Structo]

You can extend the range by holding it to your chin. It uses your body as an antenna extender.

A friend showed me that trick years ago and it works.

The 1994 Honda Accord we drive is too old to have a clicker.

[tsutt]

I drive an 88 honda i got free. and is all i can afford.

[matt h]

(deleted)

[tsutt]

except it sucks in snow.

[Phil_S]

To close this chapter...both transmitters are kaput.

I purchased a new aftermarket remote on the web. It looks very much like the OEM but is not a perfect knock off. Needless to say, it does not say Honda anywhere. You pay more than twice as much for one that says Honda on it. What's that about? Oh, never mind, I diverge.

I programmed it this morning and that took all of 1 minute. It works great.

So, the burning question for those with curious minds. If the gizmo has voltage at all the TP's, why doesn't the red light come on and why did it happen to both remotes, one of which is almost brand new? Some things, you don't get the answer. <sigh>