Please help this newbie plan a 5E3 build

[Slim66]

Folks,

I have successfully finished a 5F1, and want to set my sights on a 5E3. I have transformers, chassis, and parts from a friend. I own an original 5E3, but it's too valuable and fragile to gig with.
With that in mind, what advice/favorite mods do you suggest? Since I will be using a pedalboard with this, I would like to tighten up the low end somewhat. Also, I think the 4 input scheme is not something I would use (jumpering channels and playing with the interactive controls). I assume if I build with 2 inputs (high/low), I could use the other holes for some groovy mods.
Any guidance/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Slim

[Stevem]

These are few things you can do to tighten up the bottom end response.

Run a 5AR4 rectifier.
This will allow you to have up to 60 uf of filtering at the first power supply node instead of only 20 uf.
With this mod you will have more B+ voltage so your dropping resistor between the plate and screen will need to go up in value some to keep the B+ voltage into the rest of the amp near as stock would be with the 5Y3 recto.

Be sure with this mod that your first two filters are rated for 500 volts, not 450 just to be really safe.

Also with this mod and to be really safe I would make that first PS dropping resistor a 5 watt.

2)
If you play the amp up loud enough you will find that changing the PI coupling caps from .1 down to .022 will keep the bottom end firmer.

Use a really efficient speaker spl wise.

Something rated at at least 95 DB.
This will make the amp louder for any given volume level which will delay the loosening of the low end to a higher playing volume.

3)
Whatever speaker you do use it should be broken in well.
This process just like a more efficient speaker allows the amp to produce more low end less wattage output so you have more reserve power before clipping.

4)
Lastly you can use a bigger more massive OT.
Fender used a conservative sized one because the Jensen speakers back then where lucky to handle a true 10 watts of RMS power and a smaller mass OT reduced low end response which also helped the speaker to live.

Remember, Leo Fender never dreamed that his amps would be played loud enough to creep into putting out a square wave, and in terms of Jensen speakers blowing back then square wave output was second in terms of what blew out speakers with wattage being number 1.

Here’s a chart of the AC voltage from a wall wart or a veriac to pump into a speaker for about 4 hours to beak it in.

That wattage rating of the speaker is on the very left.

[Slim66]

Thanks, Stevem. Do you have a specific OT you would recommend?

Thanks,

Slim

[Stevem]

A Hammond 1620 model is a nice upgrade

[Slim66]

Thanks for the suggestions. So, I think I am landing on building Rob Robinette’s enhanced layout, with the Hammond 1605A OT, and an effecient speaker. How exactly do I squeeze a little more headroom from the 6V6’s?

Thanks,

Slim

[Stevem]

Can you post up this enhanced layout schematic?

[martin manning]

How exactly do I squeeze a little more headroom from the 6V6’s?

Consider the Dumble 5E3 circuit, including GZ34 rectifier and phase inverter mod's. https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 54#p335554

[Slim66]

Folks,

TIA for entertaining my newbie questions. So, if I build the Tweedle Dee circuit with a Deluxe Reverb PT and a Hammond 1620 OT, will that allow me to also use 6L6's (with the proper rectifier tube)?
I am trying to make a 5E3 with a tightened up low end, and a bit more clean headroom.
Thanks again.

Slim

[Mark]

I was wondering about VVR versus Robinette’s master volume control. What are thoughts on that?

These amps aren’t enormously loud, but very loud for home use.

What are the pros and cons of both options?

[psb962]

I use my 5e3 at home (ok ok it's a house, nowhere near any neighbors) and its 'acceptable' without any master because I did the following:

1) Used a low efficiency Jensen alnico speaker (5e3 Speed Shop A12Q - excellent). If you went with a Blue instead, it would be way louder.
2) Coupling caps from PI to power tubes reduced from .1 to .022. This kills all the subwoofer range bass (this is one of The Edge mods Fender did for him). Sounds great.
3) If the volume pots die at 2.5 (CTS do) use Alpha pots instead so you can go lower.
4) Hammond 290BX PT + RCA 5y3 = 390V B+ and 380V at plates - still too high but could be a lot worse (ie the Mojo Heyboer PTs test at 10 above that). I am still thinking about putting a MOSFET B+ reducer on the PT center tap to reduce B+ by 20V, and hence power.
5) Use Low input and wind volume down on guitar (with 50s wiring or treble bleed so guitar doesn't lose tone at lower volumes).
6) Bluesbreaker pedal (or similar) filters out even more bass - and that takes you final mile to nice tone at home with no police calling.

Hope that helps!