My X10 has begun

[martin manning]

Yes, I figured it out, and I'm famililiar with that notation. It seems odd to specify the capacitance to four significnt figures. Is there a final schematic?

[surfsup]

http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... &start=225

Its on pg 16 of xits x10=liverpool half power

As for a "final" version, we still dont know for absolutely sure a few things.

But, i hear we might be getting some better gutshots soon as well as confirmed values for the rail, and unknown caps.resistors

[Colossal]

Colossal, is there a final version of the X-10 schematic posted somewhere? Sorry, but I haven't been paying attention.

PM sent Martin.

[surfsup]

Ok another change:

- put in some 12at7s for v1 and v2. More gain, but still some blatty dist on lowE

- putting a 1m parallel to VR1 didnt seem to do anything? Wierd (to me with my endless ampbuilding skills)

- put a small blocking R on gainstage 3 grid (v2) and this helped. Still with a .001uF for the relcap. The value i have is a 3.3k mf vishay 1watt, its small and didnt bother w a term strip. Just shrinked it to the tube socket pin. This noticeably cleaned up the lowE, even with VR1 and bass maxxed. Shoulda prob gone with a 5.1k or 10k but i'm good with it as is

Now i'm def happy with the amp. For my first scratch build, from a schemo only, designing around those pesky, girthy solens, etc i am a proud papa!

[surfsup]

Okay some more changes. After trying a hundred (it seems) things, changing caps in the tone stack, changing resistors in the voltage divider, changing the R on the V2 screen, switching in parallel caps across the Vdivider, blah blah blah....here's what I have now testing with Gain1 pot maxxed and at min as well as bass@90% and 10% with treb at middle:

12ax7/12at7/12at7 are my tubes
besides that, the only changes are:
-removed 220k and put in a 0.022uF630v cap
-removed the 3.3k and put in a 33k on pin 2 instead

No more blatty distortion on low strings. Strings have better separation on all settings. With Gain max and bass max no blat. Still pretty smooth.
testing these with gain max I get really good gain maxxed out with 56k+47k to ground
with gain at mid, I get good cleans at about 3 on vol at guitar or with the 47k switched out, I get good cleans at about 4.5 on the guitar but at 10 not as much gain obviously but still plenty for sure
bass/treb pots still very interactive

So aside from my LED not working (due to wrong value R) and my VVR doin' somethin' somethin' from 5-7 on the pot, I am very happy...

[rhinson]

Okay some more changes. After trying a hundred (it seems) things, changing caps in the tone stack, changing resistors in the voltage divider, changing the R on the V2 screen, switching in parallel caps across the Vdivider, blah blah blah....here's what I have now testing with Gain1 pot maxxed and at min as well as bass@90% and 10% with treb at middle:

12ax7/12at7/12at7 are my tubes
besides that, the only changes are:
-removed 220k and put in a 0.022uF630v cap
-removed the 3.3k and put in a 33k on pin 2 instead

No more blatty distortion on low strings. Strings have better separation on all settings. With Gain max and bass max no blat. Still pretty smooth.
testing these with gain max I get really good gain maxxed out with 56k+47k to ground
with gain at mid, I get good cleans at about 3 on vol at guitar or with the 47k switched out, I get good cleans at about 4.5 on the guitar but at 10 not as much gain obviously but still plenty for sure
bass/treb pots still very interactive

So aside from my LED not working (due to wrong value R) and my VVR doin' somethin' somethin' from 5-7 on the pot, I am very happy...

are you saying you have in series a .022uf cap and 33k resistor going from the treb pot into the grid of the 3rd gain stage? rh

[surfsup]

Yes but I have the cap on the pot, the resistor is on the pin.

Same 47/56 to ground with 47 switchable. Tried subbing 82 and 100k for the 56 but 56 was where it was at for me so went back to it. 47 added gives me a bit more gain so I highly recommend the pp treb pot with that.

[surfsup]

Quick comment, went to LonelyRaven's house last night and listened to him play through a G12M celestion 12" with my amp. Our opinions may vary but to me hearing my amp with my 10" RajinCagun, there is no comparison. The speaker made a huge difference - zero problems with bass response. I need to get a new speaker!

[surfsup]

In case anyone is still working on the x10 clone, on mine I did some updating. I think at this point it is done.

-added a 1k 5W from B+ to the screens and changed the 100R to two 220R to pin 9 instead. This put my plates about 8v higher than the screens which were a few volts higher before. 330v/322v is what I'm getting now.

-changed to a 100k/100k Rg series resistors on the pushpull pot before V2 (100k HB, 200k SingleCoil)

-added 470k/470k Vdivider between V1a and V1b

The 100k or 200k option seem to work well. 100k for Humbuckers and 200k for the single coil sends more signal to V2.

[surfsup]

...

[surfsup]

Okay so i'm in process of building the head cab. All you guys that do full wood cabs i would appreciate any advice. Tung oil? Sand and reapply three times? What should i use? Really nice graining and very red colored. Should be pretty cool looking...youc an see I notched out the inside so the faceplate/chassis ends will be hidden behind some wood.

I also have a full walnut fingerjointed 1x12 cab already glued up. Here's a pic using my phone.

[Lonely Raven]

Wow that head cab is going to look awesome!

I'd consider true oil if you want an easy finish to apply. It will take many coats though.

I'm no finish expert though. I usually go wipe on polys or oils due to how easy they are. I also don't mind a bit of the woods texture to come through the finish.

[Reeltarded]

Walnut has much open grain. It really requires a pore filler, and you get a much better overall end thing using a real coated finish instead of an oil finish, unless you want a gun stock finish.

Opinion.

I make my own filler for dark wood with a mason jar full of common black asphalt road edge, and naptha. Takes about a day or two to render the color, then I mix it with Elmer's light wood pore filler. It's about as thick as uhh.. DEVILED HAM..

You know what natural mahogany looks like? This is the same treatment Martin applied to all their rosewood, and mahogany from forever ago until a few years back. It just deepens the color, without really changing it like a stain would.

You rub it into the surface with paper towels (across the grain) wait 10 minutes, and then wipe the excess off.

I'd shoot lacquer. 4 coats sealer, block sand with grain with 220 grit till there aren't any divots, then 4 coats of lacquer. Takes about 4-6 hours from start to finish.. you can mount the chassis later that day. 15 minutes in between each coat. Most forgiving finish! Easy for beginners, and the accepted method in luthiery for 100 years by now.

Love that piece of wood.. love it!

[surfsup]

LR, yea it looks great already. There was a garage sale next door and people were coming over because they saw the wood asking what it was. It looks really good and not even finished yet.

I make my own filler for dark wood with a mason jar full of common black asphalt road edge, and naptha. Takes about a day or two to render the color, then I mix it with Elmer's light wood pore filler. It's about as thick as uhh.. DEVILED HAM..

Reel, interesting. When I glued these, I took sawdust from each of the woods and mixed some with the glue. I wasn't going to fill anything else. I'll research your walnut technique

For the padauk after googling endlessly:

-wet it, sand it w/400, wet it, sand it w/400, etc until grain doesn't "lift"
-then use "Land Ark Oil" with a UV protectant mixed in.
-two coats thin oil with sanding after
-two coats thick oil with sanding

anyone used land ark before?

[arjepsen]

So... did anyone get a comparison with a real x10, or is the schem on pg 16 still the final?