I need to brighten up the LED for the acrylic plate and do some acid etched graphics. Still waiting for a couple parts but it looks pretty good so far.
"Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned" - Enzo
It is from thetonegod.com... I'm looking at how to make these in-house though. A bit sloppy on the fit but overall really nice. They also have them for 1590BB too.
How many poles on that Dyna/Ross switch?
Tony
"Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned" - Enzo
Just received my start up shipment from Small Bear Electronics. The 2N5088s have three color bands on the round side. A purple band on all of them, some have green as well, some other colors.
What is the significance of these color bands? Is it another way of indicating the gain of the particular part? I also got some 2SC1949s and their flat side is marked R which I know is a gain notation.
Maybe the color bands are a duplication for folks with poor eyesight if the letter notation is hard to read?
Couldn't find anything on the web about this. I attached a pic of a '75 Dynacomp board that shows these color bars.
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Last edited by David Root on Wed May 16, 2012 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Holy sh!t Tom, that Dynacomp is killer! Really nice work on that. Did you use one of Mammoth's powder coated boxes? I've been eyeballing that site since you posted the link to their site. It's a little hard to tell from the photo, but is that red close to the original script Dynacomps or is it more watermelon colored? Did you use water slide decals and shoot a clear coat over that? I am getting parts for a Dynacomp clone!
On the right is a closer look at the business end of the WECO 1740 photocell. Bevitt indicates that the tiny package is made of clear plastic with all faces but one painted black, leaving a transparent window on top revealing the single-crystal bar of germanium. The PN junction is in the middle and forms the photoelectric element. One side also has a swatch of white to make the identification paint dots more easily readable. The yellow dot on the end signifies the positive lead for the biasing circuit. The purple-yellow-black dots on the side use the same color code as resistors which translates to 7-4-0, with the leading "1" being implied
Tom, two separate leds. The one for the acrylic plate stays on to indicate power is on and is fed through a 330 ohm resistor. The indicator led on the top is switched and fed via 2k2 so as to not cause blindness... both pink (?) leds from Radio Shock. I say pink (?) because it looks purple to everyone.
The two switches on the front end of your comp pedal remind me of a dual exhaust on a VW bug... very cool!
Built a BuzzAround alike... NPN silicone/germanium hybrid Buzzaround. I can't believe how nice it sounds! Highly recommended.
Next up... Tremulus Lune. After that, a Tycobrahe Octave Fuzz.
All wonderful additions to the front end of a Rockster.
Tony
"Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned" - Enzo
Tom,
Yes I did use the circuit with a TL072 op amp... without the additional volume control. The second half of the op amp is an output buffer that helps to not kill the output signal. I made my own pcb for it. I have a couple of tweaks to add to the layout for the next board, but I will post it here if you would like to use it. It sounds great! Everyone that has played through it is really digging it.
My friend is making up some boards for me.For the Ross phaser project at Tonepad.
I'm gonna build one with the extra stages and one with the Univibe mods.
I've got an origional one that I tried the auto wah mod that sounded pretty cool.
I've also built a few other effects Fuzzface,EA tremolo,Couple of Rangemasters,Orange squeezer.All on pad-per hole board and mounted in an electrical box enclosure.I don't use them that often though.