Thanks, you have the sight of an eagle. I had forgotten to connect the GNFB resistor because I wasn't sure I wanted 12K on the 4 Ohm speaker output and then ..... finished the job I just forgot about it.
I also checked the Choke and V2 Plate and brushed other welds that seemed unsafe to me.
Now I do a general check before mounting the valves and then I build the FET board, the relay power supply circuit is done.
It is likely that on Saturday I can tell you if the experiment of adding the FET card on a Wonderland / JM was successful.
Excellent, I'm looking forward to finding out how the FET is on this amp.
in the English language we have different words for welding and soldering unlike Italian that uses 'Saldare' for both Welding in English usually means joining peices of metal together , Mig welding, Tig welding , Spot welding etc I think soldering used to differentiate using Lead , so electrical and plumbing joints.
My ex Wife is Italian and I have a half Italian daughter
so, in your opinion, what term should I use, welding or soldering?
This afternoon I did the valve test and .... I have a problem with the FET circuit more precisely with the relay ground. It is the first time that I have designed this circuit by myself and I do not understand where to connect the relay board ground.
I have connected the relay power supply to ground near the power supply itself but .... where do I connect the relay ground?
jazzbass wrote: ↑Thu Oct 07, 2021 7:47 pm
so, in your opinion, what term should I use, welding or soldering?
Welding is joining metal by melting and fusing the parent metal, usually with some similar filler metal added.
Soldering is joining using a filler metal that is different from the parent metal, and which melts at a lower temperature. There is mo melting of the parent metal.
In English, soldering is the correct term for making electrical connections.
The British like to incorrectly call brazing (soldering with brass alloy) "bronze welding" ;^)
jazzbass wrote: ↑Thu Oct 07, 2021 7:47 pmThis afternoon I did the valve test and .... I have a problem with the FET circuit more precisely with the relay ground. It is the first time that I have designed this circuit by myself and I do not understand where to connect the relay board ground.
I have connected the relay power supply to ground near the power supply itself but .... where do I connect the relay ground?
The relay signal ground goes to the input jack ground. The relay coil ground should be routed back to the relay power supply ground to energize the relay. Typically it goes to the footswitch jack ground lug and then to the relay supply chassis ground.
I have a problem that occurred every time I built a Wonderland / JM 100Watt, the reverb is weak, too weak. I built with the Ceriatone layout, Colgar layout, Taylor Amplified Nation layout, tried to decrease the value of R42 to have more wet signal but nothing to do, the amount of reverb is small.
The transformers used are the Hammond indicated in the diagram, or the Heyboer, or the InMadOut, but the amount of reverb was always small and I had some small increases by replacing the 12AT7 tube with a 12AX7.
What can I do?
Thanks for any suggestions you will feel you can give me.
I had read all the norburybrook article you mentioned and I had already made all the changes reported, the only one I had not taken into consideration was to replace the reverb return potentiometer taking it from 100K to 250K.
The result is that the reverb volume is increased and is quite "acceptable" if I leave the changes made previously ..... the two cathode cap of V4 replaced with 25mf and V3 replaced with a 12AX7. However, the result is still modest even with the 9AB3C1B Belton tank. What can I do more? I listened to some clips on youtube and in all of them the reverb was good.
Thanks for any help.
Guy77 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 12, 2021 3:12 am
If you have a cap across the SEND pot replace it with a lower value or remove it altogether and your reverb should greatly increase.
Cheers
Guy
hi guy77,
already done, honestly I have never put it in any amp of this type, I like the richer sound of the reverb without this capacitor even if it has a little more high frequencies that do not bother.
I'm starting to think it's the tank type, maybe I should use the one with two springs instead of the tank with three springs.
Guy77 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 12, 2021 3:12 am
If you have a cap across the SEND pot replace it with a lower value or remove it altogether and your reverb should greatly increase.
Cheers
Guy
Guy,
Is that a cap across the SEND or RETURN? On the layout I see a 0.01 (I think it should be a 750pf) on the RETURN pot.
Guy77 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 12, 2021 3:12 am
If you have a cap across the SEND pot replace it with a lower value or remove it altogether and your reverb should greatly increase.
Cheers
Guy
Guy,
Is that a cap across the SEND or RETURN? On the layout I see a 0.01 (I think it should be a 750pf) on the RETURN pot.
Thanks for the correction Ian, yes its across the RETURN pot.
Yes 750pf will give you more reverb than the .01 cap.
Hi Franco, you can also try increasing the SEND pot to 1MA.
Guy77 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 12, 2021 3:12 am
If you have a cap across the SEND pot replace it with a lower value or remove it altogether and your reverb should greatly increase.
Cheers
Guy
hi guy77,
already done, honestly I have never put it in any amp of this type, I like the richer sound of the reverb without this capacitor even if it has a little more high frequencies that do not bother.
I'm starting to think it's the tank type, maybe I should use the one with two springs instead of the tank with three springs.
Thanks
Franco
3 springs (9AB) usually makes the reverb sound less pronounced than the 2 (4AB), so if you are looking for a bigger fender like reverb the two is the way to go. Removing the return cap will indeed increase the reverb, but you can also play with the dry/wet mixing resistors
I'm sorry but it's not entirely my fault, after hours of testing, measuring I found that what I took for granted was not. I ordered a dozen 1M resistors and I was sent some brown resistors whose colored bands were not clearly visible and I did not realize that their value was not the one ordered but 1K. Unfortunately I did not notice and I installed them with all the consequences I have described. Once the resistors were installed with the right value, the amplifier was reborn and shone as told by Taylor Amplified Nation, Martin Manning, norburybrook and all of you who have built and experienced this project. Especially norburybrook and Rayan who shared their research. I made all the changes they suggested to the layout kindly shared by Taylor and I find that now the amp really sounds with authority and richness, especially the reverb. I have yet to experiment with the FET circuit on this type of amplifier, then I will share the results.
jazzbass wrote: ↑Wed Oct 13, 2021 9:27 pm
Thank you all,
I'm sorry but it's not entirely my fault, after hours of testing, measuring I found that what I took for granted was not. I ordered a dozen 1M resistors and I was sent some brown resistors whose colored bands were not clearly visible and I did not realize that their value was not the one ordered but 1K. Unfortunately I did not notice and I installed them with all the consequences I have described. Once the resistors were installed with the right value, the amplifier was reborn and shone as told by Taylor Amplified Nation, Martin Manning, norburybrook and all of you who have built and experienced this project. Especially norburybrook and Rayan who shared their research. I made all the changes they suggested to the layout kindly shared by Taylor and I find that now the amp really sounds with authority and richness, especially the reverb. I have yet to experiment with the FET circuit on this type of amplifier, then I will share the results.
Thanks for the help you have given me.
Franco
you've learned a good lesson there Franco. I had the same thing with some Dale metal films which don't have colour bands they were sent witht eh wrong values and I didn't check