Soldering temperature?
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Soldering temperature?
I was getting tired of wrestling with my cheap RS 40watt iron so I ordered a Hakko 936 soldering station. Sooo...now that I can adjust tip temperature, what's the optimum temp setting I should use for 60/40 solder? All the manual says is use the lowest temp setting possible to protect the tip and component. (This unit has very fast temp recovery time.)
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Re: Soldering temperature?
I thought it depends on what you are soldering and not what solder you are using?
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Re: Soldering temperature?
Normster,
i have that exact same station and i tend to run it at about 10-11 o'clock for normal soldering and it works great! For soldering to the chassis and what not i tend to dime the temp control and it hasn't had any problems thus far. I do clean the tip religously though.
Thanks,
Andy
i have that exact same station and i tend to run it at about 10-11 o'clock for normal soldering and it works great! For soldering to the chassis and what not i tend to dime the temp control and it hasn't had any problems thus far. I do clean the tip religously though.
Thanks,
Andy
Re: Soldering temperature?
I use a Weller that's about the same specs. I agree with the 10:00 position. I dime it when soldering heavy bus bars, brass plates (Fender ground planes) and pots.
Another important factor is tip size. I like a 1/16" screwdriver tip for turrets and a sharp point tip for PCB work. For pots and brass plates a parger tip helps to spread the heat.
Another important factor is tip size. I like a 1/16" screwdriver tip for turrets and a sharp point tip for PCB work. For pots and brass plates a parger tip helps to spread the heat.
Re: Soldering temperature?
Thanks guys! I'll give that a try.
Jazzy, different solders have different melting points. Larger joints require either more thermal mass or faster recovery, usually some combination of the two. If you get the joint too hot, it takes longer to cool to a solid state. Too cool and it won't flow. That's what I've been fighting with my cheap iron, hence moving to a temp controlled station.
Jazzy, different solders have different melting points. Larger joints require either more thermal mass or faster recovery, usually some combination of the two. If you get the joint too hot, it takes longer to cool to a solid state. Too cool and it won't flow. That's what I've been fighting with my cheap iron, hence moving to a temp controlled station.
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Re: Soldering temperature?
I have some Kester solder that needs a higher heat to flow properly. Higher than the 60/40 Radio Shack solder that i also use. If the heat isn't high enough on the Kester i get chunky solder joints that i have to revisit and reflow with the temp set at almost the 1 o'clock position. I have to be carefull because at that position on the dial, it almost is too hot to have the joint cool fast enough for the component not to move. Tis a delicate balance...
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks,
Andy
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Re: Soldering temperature?
Thanks Norm and guys,
been having problem with my 60 watter. It's starting to die on me ... the tip got too hot and starting to bend - think it's about time to invest in one of those stations and also those fans that suck the fumes before they get to my brains ...
been having problem with my 60 watter. It's starting to die on me ... the tip got too hot and starting to bend - think it's about time to invest in one of those stations and also those fans that suck the fumes before they get to my brains ...
Re: Soldering temperature?
Some of the older Weller tip were marked on the bottom with either a 7 or 8, to imply a rating at 700 or 800 degrees. I never measured the tip temp, but turrets, and eyelets solder much better with the 800 tip. For chassis soldering, I use a flea market special, don't know the wattage, but in about 5 min. it's hot enough to solder just about anything to the chassis. Soldering stations such as PACE suggest a 700 to 800 setting, depending on the job. As long as you are making "smooth concave fillets" you are at the right temperature and are using the correct amount of solder, at least that's what they told me years ago back in MIL STD soldering school. hth