going to build a bluesmaster. Any reason to do 100w ?

[norburybrook]

I've just got another old head and chassis from my friend and it has given me the incentive to build anther Dumble based amp.

I'm going for a BLuesmaster HRM as it seems it will be different enough from what I have.

Only question really is; is it worth going for the 100w over the 50?


The chassis is cut out for 4 x output valves however I never have my 50w past 12 O'clock on anything so is the 100w just as waste of time/money?


TIA


Marcus

[Structo]

100w is more better.

[10thTx]

100w is more better

At the same volume? Honest question, I've never played a 100w amp.

With respect, 10thtx

[Charlie Wilson]

Hello, 100w vs. 50w in my opinion is not about volume. It is about girth. Uh... that sounds a little weird. If you play through a Twin Reverb and then a Pro Reverb, the Twin is a bit louder but mainly it has more low end and is fatter in the mid range. I think it is a tonal preference thing because the cost or time it takes to wire two more tube sockets is slight.
CW

[Blackburn]

I agree with Charlie. Go for 100w with a half power switch. Might as well go all the way. The chassis wants you to.

[norburybrook]

I suspected as much

I think as this will be my last build for a while I might as well go the whole hog as they say.

I'm going to use Mike's (marsh amps) boards again but I need a HRM board.

Can I use Vero/bread board to make a HRM board? I have no drill press or staking tools for making an eyelet board.


Marcus

[stelligan]

I built a 50 watt Bluesmaster that sounds wonderful. But a 100 watt amp does have bigger cleans. Add a Dumbleator, and your volume fears will go away. If you have room for the other 2 tubes - go for it. Iron is not that big a difference in dough. My favorite amp is a 100 watter....

[jam-mill]

I suspected as much

I think as this will be my last build for a while I might as well go the whole hog as they say.

I'm going to use Mike's (marsh amps) boards again but I need a HRM board.

Can I use Vero/bread board to make a HRM board? I have no drill press or staking tools for making an eyelet board.


Marcus

Marcus,

Other than aesthetics, there is no reason that I can think of that would prevent using vero/bread board for HRM.

-jack

[jelle]

I just converted my own Bluesmaster amp from 100W to 50W. Still enough punch and clean headroom for me.

[ayan]

I'd say of all the configurations I ever built, the BM is the one that probably benefits the most from the 100W option. You will find that although it may have enough clean headroom for a few, even the 100W versions can break up a bit too early for some applications. It's mostly due to the PI, but added to that is the fact that I think the BM OD likes to see the preamp volume dialed in higher than is required from other builds. In either case, having a beefier power section holds things up a little more steadily IMNSHO. To put things in perspective though, although I built amps with a 60/100W switch in the back early on, all my amps have sounded better in 100W mode and with the speaker plugged into the OT's secondary rated at half its impedance, e.g., 8 ohm plugged into 4 ohm tap.

Cheers,

Gil

I've just got another old head and chassis from my friend and it has given me the incentive to build anther Dumble based amp.

I'm going for a BLuesmaster HRM as it seems it will be different enough from what I have.

Only question really is; is it worth going for the 100w over the 50?


The chassis is cut out for 4 x output valves however I never have my 50w past 12 O'clock on anything so is the 100w just as waste of time/money?


TIA


Marcus

[Structo]

I'm going to use Mike's (marsh amps) boards again but I need a HRM board.

Can I use Vero/bread board to make a HRM board? I have no drill press or staking tools for making an eyelet board.

Marcus

You just have to be more industrious.

[norburybrook]

Thanks Tom,

With the right tools and parts it would be easy to make.


I need to find something to round over the eyelets and a piece of fiberglass board.

Only things I can find are copper backed PCB boards which unless I can peel off the copper will be no good.

Buying a Staking tool just for this little board is also not cost effective.

However I'm British and as we say here 'necessity is the mother of invention'.

My brother and Father are/were engineers so I need to keep the family honour as well

shame one lives on the other side of the globe and the other is no longer with us.


Marcus

[talbany]

100w for me tends to be a bit more responsive and touch sensitive and has more throat (More girth in the low mids)...My 100 versions tends to hang longer and bloom a bit better,it also stays punchy and articulate longer right up the master. ...Obviously some of these attributes become more obvious the harder you push it..IMO a part of the Dumble charm/personality resides in it's powerful (high current) output section
I am sure some here are perfectly happy with their 50's

Tony

[M Fowler]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=7 ... 0576167785

Or make swedge tool for eyelets from old punch or bolt ground to taper fit the eyelet.

[norburybrook]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=7 ... 0576167785

Or make swedge tool for eyelets from old punch or bolt ground to taper fit the eyelet.

Brilliant, thanks Mark , I wasn't searching the right places.


Thanks again guys,

Love this forum

Marcus