The Amp Garage

I hadn't thought to try that, I will have to give the a try. They are "snap rings" in old-school mechanic speak. External or internal, as needed I have ditched the regular bulbs for LEDs myself & insert them into the jewel. I have been buying the whole assembly, so it comes with the correct nut. But...

Pretty interesting project. Looking at the schematic, & a disclaimer that I am not an expert, it looks to me like you are shunting a good bit of signal to ground, right at the 6K6 grid with only a 250K dwell pot. I have built a 6G15 w/a 6K6 driver (works great), as well as added a dwell control to m...

Looks to me like the 5K (R6) & C5 (10uF) are creating a B+ side node, lowering the screen voltage without affecting the downstream main B+ rail voltage by making it all pass through the 5K. I would have to guess that was an intentional design choice.

jabguit wrote: ↑Sun Oct 27, 2024 12:56 pmI was initially impressed with the results. With time though all of my joints have opened up after only a couple years.

Disappointed to hear that things are opening up. Fingers crossed on the ones I just completed.

While I don't love it, I have done tolex, as needed, for years & years. I used traditional solvent-based contact cement the most frequently, but recently tried the Wilsonart water-based contact adhesive on the last batch of cabs, with pretty good results. It doesn't have the instant hi-bond stick th...

Or use two resistors and one filter cap to make a voltage divider connected to the B+ rail and reference your heater CT to that. I just used that set-up for the first time, on the amp I am finishing up, borrowed directly from one of your power supply drawings. Works great & I plan to make that a re...

Thanks all for the insights. I have the amp here, as I am still working on the cabinet.

I will revisit that section & try out some alternate values.

Do you have a coupling cap after the 3rd gain stage? As it is right now there's basically 147k to ground from that node. Also I'd recommend going the other way with the reverb driver cathode resistor since it's got a MV. Try 1.5k to start. There is indeed a coupling cap between those resistors & th...

I've been wondering why my Ampeg GU12's don't rock nearly as well as my AC12's.... My GU's are both wonderfully clean, but NOWHERE as 'Stones'y as the AC's once its NFB is clipped. I can't offer any insights other than the AC has the much simpler tone control. But I am not familiar with either of t...

I have only mid-level tube knowledge & pretty much zero regarding SS. The appealing thing about the MOSFETs was that they were kind of a plug & play replacement with a tube, relying on similar outboard components/functions. I think that this drawing below (not mine, but from the smart guys at Hoffma...

I built a MOSFET version of a typical LFO which worked well & tried various ways to tie it in, but never really followed through to any acceptable design. I wish I had taken some notes, which I didn't but, I was in a similar place to where you are & was coming to the conclusion that there just wasn'...

Looking at a VibroChamp schematic (& similar on the Airline), the tube being wiggled has a dedicated cathode resistor to establish the bias, then the LFO signal is applied to the cathode side of that resistor. Looks to me like you have the pot itself establishing the bias.

Any way to physically float/isolate the junction of the B+ feed to the 100K plate resistors?

It's unfortunate and regrettable that such an unsuitable material is the default board substrate used for builders of Fender type amps. Agreed. If I were to intentionally do a vintage layout AB763, etc. I would likely use eyelets, but there is GR10 glass board stock available in 1/16" thickness tha...

On V1 I have 130V and 121V on the plates. However, the DC on the inputs remains even if I take the V1 tube out. So I don't think it's that. Since I posted, I found a similar thread on here where the consensus was that the Mojotone eyelet board conducts(!), and plate voltage creeps across the board ...