The Amp Garage

ToneMerc wrote:Unless there is some miracle that you can obtain a chassis and board set from Brownnote you are going to have to roll your own.

Rod, check your PM for a holiday miracle...

You may be building furniture instead of a good speaker cabinet. Have you played a solid maple 4x12 before?

You may prefer having a cabinet made of void-free ply for its resonance-damping properties, and then applying a veneer of your maple for aesthetics.

donzoid wrote:The two waveforms have to be aligned by shifting one to match the other due to the delay between mics. Believe it or not, that few milliseconds when corrected makes it sound "huge".

Correcting for wavelength is dependent on the pitch. What note do you use for tuning the mic placement?

Reeltarded wrote:Don't be wrong when you eat the mic. Yikes. Lightning.

You lose more roadies doing sound check that way...

Yikes indeed, that makes me recall the good ol' days of setting everything up, then, with guitar in hand, tapping the mic to see if the grounds were right.

Yeah, lip sparks... Hated that!

cbass wrote:Locomotive crash

In the shuffling madness...

Whew, thanks for poking those synapses back to life!

The other day I was wanting to find out more about his guitar, and found out that those humbuckers are not original to the 1959 ES125, P90's were. In the picture, you can see the outline where the other pickups were and also the screws were left there. It doesnt matter these old pickups sound incre...

What say you? You may want to read the links I provided (the wiki addresses this in the first body paragraph). AC has a lower "let go" threshhold insofar as current is concerned. This causes (or may cause) clamping onto the object shocking you, which causes longer exposure, which causes more curren...

tanusgreystar wrote:I'm having second thoughts about this. I'm probably going to take the amp to a tech. This is obviously beyond my abilities.

I am relieved to see you come to this conclusion.

Thank you for thinking this through.

JMFahey wrote:Looks like carpet but see there's absolutely not cuts or joints, specially on corners or the back panel.

[img1424]http://medias.audiofanzine.com/images/n ... 386123.jpg[/img]

Looks great... until you want to do a quick speaker swap.

I had a metal tool inside poking around and I saw a spark on the ground side of one of the power caps. oh sh.t I said not good. I started to re solder grounds again and saw another spark from another cap oh sh.t still have some issues I'm sure its my great soldering technique. will start bleeding t...

sonofmickel wrote:Working everything back inside the amp.
This is the epitome of breadboard style.

You misspelled "epitaph".

FWIW, I'd back off on the shielded wire, and only use it when you determine you need it.

I thought it was some really good photoshopping.

Seriously tho', you've turned out some nice work. Kudos!

Hot melt glue is much better than silicone for me. Holds really well and a hot air gun will remove it. Whatever this is/was, it's not doing the job. http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26253 [IMG:1024:576]http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah188/gearlovin/20141022_085759_zpse8258c1c.jpg[/im...

xtian wrote:And then there's a nice hi-temp version in the event you want to secure power resistors.

Realize that it will act as an insulator rather than a heat sink or thermal conductor.

Here's the link to Mark's Express Combo #1: http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7911

I like the new board, Mark. I'm a fan of the distributed power cap layout. Yours looks great.