Starting to populate the chassis....

[Dragon1]

Started looking at the Skyline, Couple resistor changes, add a couple resistors, change two caps, and a trim pot, on the preamp board, not too bad so far.
So I was using the original 1984 schematic but need to pay more attention to the schematics, that's where the correct stuff seems to be. I've downloaded the 1988 Skyliner schematic and am studying those and comparing to the layout...
Brian

[ijedouglas]

Great! I think you'll be happier with the end result.

[Dragon1]

To sluckey, those aren't 10k resistors, that is V4 and those are 120R resistors, one to ground and one to two of the pins according to the layout. I have mistakenly used the layout more than I should have as I think these may be different on the schematic. I don't have it right in front of me to check. The 10K resistors come later in the line for the 50% switch,
I'm not using the 50% switch so I deleted this wiring and 10K resistors.
Brian

[sluckey]

That's good.

[WhopperPlate]

I commend Dragon1 for the humble reply. Crazy cool chopper! I don’t usually like that sort of stuff , but that’s a pretty tasteful design !

With workmanship like that by the time you are done building this amp you will probably outpace us all! Cheers , happy to hang out here with you !

[Dragon1]

Thanks, here are the guitars I've built...first is called Caractacus, Designed by Chris Monk (has a website and You Tube videos) "Highline Guitars" who makes guitars in his garage, Named it after the tinker in "Chitty chitty bang bang" second is a Rick 330 hollow body....Designed by me, scaled up a picture designed the structure, Paint is designed to look like an older Rick cause old ones are worth more.

There's one more but I can't find a picture.
Brian

[Dragon1]

So, I compared the '88 Skyliner to the'84 #124 schematics and ordered the parts that are different between the two. I also bought good quality tinned PVC covered wire as I just used cheap plastic covered wire which melted when I soldered the ends. I will start stripping back the chassis to start my rebuild, I don't have to remove everything as most of it's the same but I will try to be more careful while rewiring it.
What wattage irons are you soldering with, mine is 40 watt and takes a while because it cycles up and down, Doe's anyone make one that doesn't cycle, just stays hot all the time????
Again, thanks for all your previous help
Brian

[erwin_ve]

There are a lot of good soldering station out there.
Depending on budget ofc.
I have a JBC BT-2BQA. Temp adjustment and is soldering ready in less than 3sec. It has a active tip and powers down when in station to avoid burning your tip.

[martin manning]

What wattage irons are you soldering with, mine is 40 watt and takes a while because it cycles up and down, Doe's anyone make one that doesn't cycle, just stays hot all the time????

What brand/model is the one you are using?

[dbharris]

That looks like a nice one Erwin!

For an "enthusiast" model you may consider a Hakko FX888D. It doesn't cycle off automatically but is hot in less than a minute and has temp control. You can turn it higher for soldering jacks and chassis grounds and lower for components.

-Dan

[GAStan]

This is like asking what the best car brand is, everyone has their own preference.

I recommend finding a good soldering station with temperature control. Higher wattage will help with warm-up time and overall temperature stability as you solder. A variety of tips is helpful, larger tips store more heat energy and are good for lugs and terminals. Smaller are good for boards.

Hakko and Weller are well known and good. Personally I use a less well known brand, an Edsyn 951SXe. It's a basic station with temperature control on the base and 100 watt iron. Heats quickly with stable temperature. Good tip selection. Not fancy but a good "work horse" of a station.

For reworking like you are going to do you'll want something to remove the old solder. Rework stations often include a solder removal iron. Personally I'm not familiar enough with these to make suggestions beyond suggesting you consider obtaining one. I use a "solder sucker", a spring loaded piston pump with my soldering iron, it is what I was taught with.

[Dragon1]

I have a Weller 40watt from Menards, cost like $15. I have a solder sucker too so removal isn't so bad.
Thans for replies and info.
Brian

[martin manning]

You will not regret investing $120 in a Weller WE1010NA or Hakko FX888D-29BY soldering station.

[GAStan]

You will not regret investing $120 in a Weller WE1010NA or Hakko FX888D-29BY soldering station.

+1

Time to move up from the $15 iron. You'll be amazed at the difference.

[Dragon1]

Sounds like a plan, checked out the Weller system, looks good.
Brian