Complete 124 Schematic
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Re: Complete 124 Schematic
In terms of the relay switching I am going to admit I don't yet fully understand how it is supposed to work. I think that with the foot pedal disconnected the switch will ground (ie close) or open the relay circuit. The switch has to be in the grounded position (ie closed relay coil circuit) for the foot pedal to do anything. Then the foot pedal can open and close the circuit when it is plugged in.
If that is the way it is supposed to work then that one switch won't do anything when the foot pedal is disconnected. I see the picture and I can't see any ground either??? Did HAD just forget to hook it up or is it a 'feature' in that it is always OFF when the foot pedal is disconnected???
If that is the way it is supposed to work then that one switch won't do anything when the foot pedal is disconnected. I see the picture and I can't see any ground either??? Did HAD just forget to hook it up or is it a 'feature' in that it is always OFF when the foot pedal is disconnected???
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Re: Complete 124 Schematic
The switching is pretty basic.
When the panel switch is in pedal mode, it relies on a switch in the foot pedal to provide path to ground (via pin 3 of the XLR) which allows current to flow to activate the relay. Ground pin 2 to activate the OD relay. Ground pin 4 to activate the boost relay. Pins 1 and 5 provide current limited power to light LEDs in the pedal using the same scheme.
When a panel switch is in manual mode, the center pole is grounded and that activates the associated relay.
So as I see it, the OD would work off the panel switch in manual mode, but the Boost switch looks kind of useless. It will disconnect the pedal function, but not activate the relay since that side isn't grounded.
When the panel switch is in pedal mode, it relies on a switch in the foot pedal to provide path to ground (via pin 3 of the XLR) which allows current to flow to activate the relay. Ground pin 2 to activate the OD relay. Ground pin 4 to activate the boost relay. Pins 1 and 5 provide current limited power to light LEDs in the pedal using the same scheme.
When a panel switch is in manual mode, the center pole is grounded and that activates the associated relay.
So as I see it, the OD would work off the panel switch in manual mode, but the Boost switch looks kind of useless. It will disconnect the pedal function, but not activate the relay since that side isn't grounded.
Last edited by odourboy on Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
- mdroberts1243
- Posts: 287
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:59 pm
- Location: Ottawa, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Now if you decided for some reason that the default condition was relay energized for PAB 'off' then the switch does the correct thing... it disconnects from the FS in order to release the relay and turn PAB 'on'... problem is that you have to have the FS plugged in all the time to be able to disable PAB. (I'm not suggesting this is likely, BTW).odourboy wrote:The switching is pretty basic.
When the panel switch is in pedal mode, it relies on a switch in the foot pedal to provide path to ground (via pin 3 of the XLR) which allows current to flow to activate the relay. Ground pin 2 to activate the OD relay. Ground pin to activate the boost relay. Pins 1 and 5 provide current limited power to light LEDs in the pedal using the same scheme.
When a panel switch is in manual mode, the center pole is grounded and that activates the associated relay.
So as I see it, the OD should work off the panel switch in manual mode, but the Boost switch looks kind of useless. It will disconnect tde pedal function, but not activate the relay since that side isn't grounded.
It is interesting you don't even see any evidence of solder on those switch lugs... so the intent from the beginning was to leave the manual position of PAB switch ungrounded.
Really nice to have a complete reference schematic for 124!
-mark.
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Interesting hypothesis Dr. Roberts! Billy's schematic does not show it that way, but I can not tell from the photos if he got it right or not. (He did capture the weirdness of the boost switch wiring.)mdroberts1243 wrote:
Now if you decided for some reason that the default condition was relay energized for PAB 'off' then the switch does the correct thing... it disconnects from the FS in order to release the relay and turn PAB 'on'... problem is that you have to have the FS plugged in all the time to be able to disable PAB. (I'm not suggesting this is likely, BTW).
It is interesting you don't even see any evidence of solder on those switch lugs... so the intent from the beginning was to leave the manual position of PAB switch ungrounded.
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
- mdroberts1243
- Posts: 287
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:59 pm
- Location: Ottawa, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Thanks, but 'md' are my initials not my profession!odourboy wrote:
Interesting hypothesis Dr. Roberts! Billy's schematic does not show it that way, but I can not tell from the photos if he got it right or not. (He did capture the weirdness of the boost switch wiring.)
-mark.
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Sorry Mark. I thought the homage to Dr. D would amuse you.
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
New version 1.4 posted. Added some notes regarding the pre-OD network, PAB panel switch and Can cap used in PS. 'Switched' Main speaker jack now shown.
I think we're pretty close on this IMHO.
Thanks all for your input. Feel free to post/PM any addition comments or errors. I'll try to maintain this.
I think we're pretty close on this IMHO.
Thanks all for your input. Feel free to post/PM any addition comments or errors. I'll try to maintain this.
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Its really looking good! The only thing I can add at this point are a couple of insignificant details. 1) accessory AC jack and 2) it looks like the 6v tranny has a non-grounded center tap (shown in one picture). (I did say INSIGNIFICANT...)odourboy wrote:New version 1.4 posted. Added some notes regarding the pre-OD network, PAB panel switch and Can cap used in PS. 'Switched' Main speaker jack now shown.
I think we're pretty close on this IMHO.
Thanks all for your input. Feel free to post/PM any addition comments or errors. I'll try to maintain this.
At this point now we need someone with layout software that can make up the #124 component layout and chassis diagram...
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Oh my! I think I'll save those up until we get a few more, or something more serious.ic-racer wrote:
Its really looking good! The only thing I can add at this point are a couple of insignificant details. 1) accessory AC jack and 2) it looks like the 6v tranny has a non-grounded center tap (shown in one picture). (I did say INSIGNIFICANT...)
I'll leave that one for someone else.ic-racer wrote: At this point now we need someone with layout software that can make up the #124 component layout and chassis diagram...
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Great schematic!
One nit - shouldn't the B+1 be *after* the standby switch?
As drawn the power tube plates would always be live.
One nit - shouldn't the B+1 be *after* the standby switch?
As drawn the power tube plates would always be live.
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
Blimey mate! Good catch.nickt wrote:Great schematic!
One nit - shouldn't the B+1 be *after* the standby switch?
As drawn the power tube plates would always be live.
I moved the standby switch at one point and forgot to move the B+1.
I can't let this go as is. Schematic has been updated V1.5
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Double Boards
I was just perusing the photos of #124 today for the Nth time, and I'm curious...
What's the story with the double boards. In all the threads I've read (and I've spent hours and hours lurking in here and over on the other TW side) no one's ever mentioned the fact that most of the boards are double stacked. (Would it be out of character for Mr. Dumble to have components in between these boards? Along the vein of gooping up everything)
What's going on in between them? The boards weren't removed during the photo shoot (at least as far as the photo record shows), so how are "we" confident about the wiring underneath?
I've never seen anyone recreate the double stacked boards in any posts either...
Comments?
-Steve
What's the story with the double boards. In all the threads I've read (and I've spent hours and hours lurking in here and over on the other TW side) no one's ever mentioned the fact that most of the boards are double stacked. (Would it be out of character for Mr. Dumble to have components in between these boards? Along the vein of gooping up everything)
What's going on in between them? The boards weren't removed during the photo shoot (at least as far as the photo record shows), so how are "we" confident about the wiring underneath?
I've never seen anyone recreate the double stacked boards in any posts either...
Comments?
-Steve
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
I don't know if it was HADs intent, but the double boards serve nicely to hold leads and jumpers in place when you make component changes. It also makes runing wires under the board a little eaiser - they don't get hung up along the way.
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Re: Complete 124 Schematic
deleted...(looking at older version of schematic)