The BB should be good still. You just need to remove the bottom nut on your footswitch. I'm building my next one in a BB size
Excellent, thanks. Let us know if you are going to bias the op amp as suggested.
I know it's only the v1 BOM, but I don't think the Mouser project link is the correct one yet.
Is it possible to see a photo of the loaded DC -DC board with the inductors and Traco in place ?
The BB should be good still. You just need to remove the bottom nut on your footswitch. I'm building my next one in a BB size
Excellent, thanks. Let us know if you are going to bias the op amp as suggested.
I know it's only the v1 BOM, but I don't think the Mouser project link is the correct one yet.
Is it possible to see a photo of the loaded DC -DC board with the inductors and Traco in place ?
Good catch. Just updated the link with the correct mouser project. I am updating the circuit today to add the bias resistors. Standby ..
The BB should be good still. You just need to remove the bottom nut on your footswitch. I'm building my next one in a BB size
Excellent, thanks. Let us know if you are going to bias the op amp as suggested.
I know it's only the v1 BOM, but I don't think the Mouser project link is the correct one yet.
Is it possible to see a photo of the loaded DC -DC board with the inductors and Traco in place ?
Good catch. Just updated the link with the correct mouser project. I am updating the circuit today to add the bias resistors. Standby ..
Hi Ryan, any progress? I saw the bias resistor updated boards on the gallery , lookin good!
rogb wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2024 7:52 am
Excellent, thanks. Let us know if you are going to bias the op amp as suggested.
I know it's only the v1 BOM, but I don't think the Mouser project link is the correct one yet.
Is it possible to see a photo of the loaded DC -DC board with the inductors and Traco in place ?
Good catch. Just updated the link with the correct mouser project. I am updating the circuit today to add the bias resistors. Standby ..
Hi Ryan, any progress? I saw the bias resistor updated boards on the gallery , lookin good!
Hey Rogb! Yes! I received 50x board sets today with the bias resistors added and posted them on my site moments ago. https://www.thetonegeek.com/product-page/box-a-lator. I have parts coming in for my usual build tutorial videos, write-ups, etc to complement the DIY PCBs. Sprinting quickly to the finish line on this exciting project!
Good catch. Just updated the link with the correct mouser project. I am updating the circuit today to add the bias resistors. Standby ..
Hi Ryan, any progress? I saw the bias resistor updated boards on the gallery , lookin good!
Hey Rogb! Yes! I received 50x board sets today with the bias resistors added and posted them on my site moments ago. https://www.thetonegeek.com/product-page/box-a-lator. I have parts coming in for my usual build tutorial videos, write-ups, etc to complement the DIY PCBs. Sprinting quickly to the finish line on this exciting project!
-Ryan
Ordered! Thanks Ryan, just started on my K Lator too.
Could you please check through the Mouser project before I order please, did you settle on 1M bias resistors in the end?
Cheers Rog
Good catch. Just updated the link with the correct mouser project. I am updating the circuit today to add the bias resistors. Standby ..
Hi Ryan, any progress? I saw the bias resistor updated boards on the gallery , lookin good!
Hey Rogb! Yes! I received 50x board sets today with the bias resistors added and posted them on my site moments ago. https://www.thetonegeek.com/product-page/box-a-lator. I have parts coming in for my usual build tutorial videos, write-ups, etc to complement the DIY PCBs. Sprinting quickly to the finish line on this exciting project!
-Ryan
Ryan, I just checked through the 2 schematics and the 2x1M bias resistors are R11 and R12. You have already used these numbers on the power section so I'm renaming as R13 50k and R14 1k5 for the LED supply.
Yes, sorry for the delay. Heads down on the accompanying documentation. Based on my calculations, the 1m bias resistors are good to go. I have them in my prototype and it's very stable. The bias for the opa2134 is in the pico-amps so not much needed if you're using that chip.
rccolgan wrote: ↑Thu Feb 29, 2024 4:48 pm
Yes, sorry for the delay. Heads down on the accompanying documentation. Based on my calculations, the 1m bias resistors are good to go. I have them in my prototype and it's very stable. The bias for the opa2134 is in the pico-amps so not much needed if you're using that chip.
I'm using OPA2134, what do suggest, 470K?
My Mouser order arrived in 2 days so I'm ready when boards arrive
rccolgan wrote: ↑Thu Feb 29, 2024 4:48 pm
Yes, sorry for the delay. Heads down on the accompanying documentation. Based on my calculations, the 1m bias resistors are good to go. I have them in my prototype and it's very stable. The bias for the opa2134 is in the pico-amps so not much needed if you're using that chip.
I'm using OPA2134, what do suggest, 470K?
My Mouser order arrived in 2 days so I'm ready when boards arrive
Nice! I sent it via FedEx which is amazingly quick to your part of the world. The 1M is good however for a few extra pennies, grab 2x 470k to have on hand
Hey Ryan, the boards arrived today and look really good.
The faceplate is also a very nice touch too.
I wanted to lacquer it to protect the screen print but was afraid of dissolving it so covered with clear adhesive plastic instead.
EDIT: the clear plastic looked bad so I hit it with clear nitro, it survived! Just dust some on first and let dry to seal the screen print before heavier coats.
One suggestion for the next run would be to just raise the smaller faceplate font sizes a little. Being a funky font and very small it's quite hard to read!
Hoping to start the build tomorrow!
Thanks again for an interesting project and hoping quite a few on here will try it.
rogb wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2024 3:51 pm
Hey Ryan, the boards arrived today and look really good.
The faceplate is also a very nice touch too.
I wanted to lacquer it to protect the screen print but was afraid of dissolving it so covered with clear adhesive plastic instead.
EDIT: the clear plastic looked bad so I hit it with clear nitro, it survived! Just dust some on first and let dry to seal the screen print before heavier coats.
One suggestion for the next run would be to just raise the smaller faceplate font sizes a little. Being a funky font and very small it's quite hard to read!
Hoping to start the build tomorrow!
Thanks again for an interesting project and hoping quite a few on here will try it.
Thanks! The faceplates have been pretty durable without the need for additional protection however you're allowed to do anything you like. I find that by including the faceplates, it helps the builder feel like they just built an actual product over a hacky DIY effort that leaves out the cosmetic aspect. I'm looking forward to your review! The signal board is 4-layers (Layers 1 & 4 are ground planes, layers 2 & 3 are signal with grounds on each side of the trace essentially creating psuedo-coax between components) so you may need to boost your soldering iron a tad bit on the ground connections since the copper acts like a heat sink.
It lives!
Not amazingly tidy and neat but working well.
I fired it up with TL072 and it sounded really good and quiet. When I was sure it was working, I changed it for the OPA. I can't say I can hear much difference.
A really nice build, very enjoyable and some good planning and thought gone into this, so a big thanks to Ryan.
The big test will be in the rehearsal room with full rig swapping between full tube Dlator and the little Box. I may have the Klator ready too, but it's more time consuming being on vero.
You may notice I didn't use the PCB mount pots as I didn't realise they were needed but it was very easy to "fly" them with solid copper wire onto the PCB.
I highly recommend this build based on my few minutes playing through my small amp with reverb and delay in the Box loop.
Having the cool faceplate separates this from other builds.
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I successfully recreated my circuit in LTSpice for further study. Sharing here for anyone that's interested in tweaking the circuit. One thing I might amend in this circuit is using 10KA send and 10KA return pots. Or at least a 10KA on the return instead of 1M I currently have. If you've already made the pedal with my original design using 1M return pots, you can simply add a 4.7k resistor on legs 1&2, and another 4.7k resistor on legs 2&3.
Interesting that you found the 10Ks a better option. I haven't got LTSpice but I ordered a couple of pots to see if I could see/feel/hear any difference.
Thanks and good that you are refining your project.
Just a quick update. I finally finished my Kleinulator on a tiny veroboard in a 125B enclosure. It was a nightmare! But I have now run all 3 effects buffers through my rig, albeit quietly at home.
#183 preamp > fx buffer loop mono in out> active splitter> stereo 20 / 20 power amp > stereo 2x 10 cab.
Ryan's Box A Lator: Very well designed and so relaxing to assemble. If I would change something it would be top mount jacks for send and return.
Functions very well, boosts signal well. The least color of the 3, and one I would trust in a gig. I haven't tried at high volume yet but perhaps a little sterile, if I can say that without being unkind? Could be the op amp? Maybe TL072 might be different?
Kleinulator on veroboard with J201 JFETS:
Horrible to build and get working in small enclosure. Also had to get better charge pump that didn't overheat. 7660SIPAZ from Mouser.
I have to say, it sounds great even if the bright switches do very little. Surprisingly quiet and seems to hit the PIs in a similar way to the tube Dlator. I think some kind of warmth and grit from the J201s? Not sure I would gig it unless rebuilt better in a bigger enclosure but it works and is small!
Tube Dlator: my old faithful! Still the best sounding option of course. Requires rack case and mains power and 1 dual triode. Unlike the pedals.
A lot of signal boost to hit the PIs and bright switches that work well!
For a smaller rig, I'd choose Ryan's Boxer every time. Reliability is key and is well designed and well, professional. But don't discount a Kleinulator or Dumbleator. You need to see what works for you. All 3 work well in a basic pre out power amp in fx loop, essential for your delays in a Dumble rig, I would say.
If I ever get to the rehearsal room I'll try them cranked up too.
Added layout I used for Klator
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Last edited by rogb on Wed Apr 17, 2024 9:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Standby ..Standby ..
I find that by including the faceplates, it helps the builder feel like they just built an actual product over a hacky DIY effort that leaves out the cosmetic aspect. I'm looking forward to your review! The signal board is 4-layers (Layers 1 & 4 are ground planes, layers 2 & 3 are signal with grounds on each side of the trace essentially creating psuedo-coax between components) so you may need to boost your soldering iron a tad bit on the ground connections since the copper acts like a heat sink.
