Sluckey Revibe - My version

[Bombacaototal]

Put a red LED (not green) in series with the VTL5C1 LED. If it works the LED will flash when the tremolo is on.

Why red (or yellow) LED? Because a red or yellow LED has a lower voltage drop than the green LED. Putting the LED in series with the VTL will increase the bias voltage on the cathode of the oscillator tube. This is why I say it may not work. Worth the try though. Easy to do.

Just tried it. but it did not work

[Bombacaototal]

By the way, my led (as is, in parallel) only works on the slow setting, on the fast it will blink for 3 seconds and go off

[Bombacaototal]

2 more things to report, after some use, for some reason the trem circuit just kills the entire signal until I power on and off (remember the trem is tapped of the output). I think it has to do with the led. The other thing is that no matter which way I wire the range switch the fast and slow are always in reverse (based on my silkscreening). I don't understand how it can still be reversed if I swap the leads..

[sluckey]

...no matter which way I wire the range switch the fast and slow are always in reverse (based on my silkscreening). I don't understand how it can still be reversed if I swap the leads..

It's a SPST switch. The two contacts are either open or closed. Swapping wires will do nothing. You have to physically rotate the switch body to make it agree with your silkscreen.

[Bombacaototal]

...no matter which way I wire the range switch the fast and slow are always in reverse (based on my silkscreening). I don't understand how it can still be reversed if I swap the leads..

It's a SPST switch. The two contacts are either open or closed. Swapping wires will do nothing. You have to physically rotate the switch body to make it agree with your silkscreen.

Got it! I'm using those fender style ones and it's too tall to rotate down based on hole location.
https://modulusamplification.com/carlin ... 3111-p.asp
I need a different switch like a Carling below, but the toggle is physically a bit longer (0.5 Vs 0.687) doesn't look as good. I think I will just leave as is. https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/ ... cyCode=GBP

For the led, I think my only solution is a relay, will start thinking about how to implement it

[sluckey]

For the led, I think my only solution is a relay, will start thinking about how to implement it

You have half of V5 free since you converted to the Tremonator circuit. Hopefully most of the V5A circuitry is still on the board. Here's a simple mod to convert V5A to a LED driver. Should be a pretty simple mod. Give it a try...

[sluckey]

Wait! Try this first. Just add a LED to the top of the 470K V5B plate resistor...

[Bombacaototal]

For the led, I think my only solution is a relay, will start thinking about how to implement it

You have half of V5 free since you converted to the Tremonator circuit. Hopefully most of the V5A circuitry is still on the board. Here's a simple mod to convert V5A to a LED driver. Should be a pretty simple mod. Give it a try...

I have most of the parts in, but have removed those around the footswitch to be able to use that lug with the VTL. With the PCB there is slightly less flexibility to moving things around, I do miss my turret boards for these type of situations.

I guess, if it is just to light up the led, I can use the unused triode on its own, there is no need to connect it to anything. Just need the plate resistor, the led on the cathode and the signal (pin 2) to ground via a capacitor.

But your schematic got me thinking, do you think the vibrato inverter will generate another oscillation on the plate of the LFO triode (vibrato oscillator). I am wondering if it will make up for an interesting sound, ie the combination of the LFO with the high frequency oscillator. Or is it unlikely to affect the LFO?

I will try the led on the plate idea first

[Bombacaototal]

Just tried the red led on the plates, causes lots of cracked and oscillations with trem on and off, although at different intensities (audio attached ). Also caused pops when switching the trem on, but the led did light up at least. It seems that the issue of the trem being audible (which is new) is a cross talk, and it is now happening all the time, with or without the led, and it still happens if I remove the output of the VTL to the output jack. It seems to be relating to V5 lead dress

But funnily enough after removing the led and adding it again, in parallel with the VTL, as I did before, it now blinks when the trem is off on both fast and slow. For me this one is sorted

[Bombacaototal]

All finished, super happy with it, especially after such a battle.

1) first thing I needed to do was to improve the grounding scheme as I had a ground loop whenever the trem circuit was added (by physically removing the trem lead from the output I noticed this). I isolated the RCA, input and output jacks from the chassis. Given my B supply was free I allocated that to the reverb driver (6v6) leaving A just for the trem lfo. I then separated all grounds, one for the reverb plus supply, one for the trem plus supply, one for rectifier plus supply, and obviously one for the mains. It was a mission doing that on a PCB, also due to my Ground2 being under the board. Ground loop sorted

2) I played around with the TRS footswitch and it's better touching the chassis but grounded with the reverb ground (in my case the isolated RCA jacks which then meet the reverb star ground).

3) I was left with the trem ticking when the effect was not engaged. Ground was decoupled and I assume ticking was traveling via B+ as it was still present when vtl was disconnected from the output jack. I noticed the lead dress was super sensitive, mainly on pin 6 and 7 on trem lfo (V5). I decided to move the circuit to my free V4 socket (further from the PT), pins 1, 2, 3. I also added a coax for 1 and 2. No more issues, super happy.

4) last thing I tried was to add the 0.01uF to ground on the trem lfo plates (470k) as per original. It quieted things down and made it all more stable. But in the slow range setting it sort of motorboats. It also caused the led on both fast and slow settlings to stop blinking after one or two seconds, don't know why, so I removed it. Attached the sound sample of the issue, I have the unit dry level at max and my amp with master almost all open, so I can hear everything in great detail

5) for the led, it's like a delay tap tempo, as it's flashing to match the speed pot when not in use, and I'm finding it a great feature as it quickly allows to visually know where's set before use, happy to leave as is, and when engaged it's off, which is a good visual to know the effect is in use

6) if I had to build it again I would probably remove the range toggle, don't really like the slow setting that much and it seems to be causing other issues. I still have the odd time when the led will start and the slowly fade on the slow range only. I might still remove it from my build

Time to button back up and enjoy it

[sluckey]

Dummyload successfully added the Tremonator to a 6G15. Did you ever see this...

https://sluckeyamps.com/trem/Dummyload.pdf

[Bombacaototal]

Dummyload successfully added the Tremonator to a 6G15. Did you ever see this...

https://sluckeyamps.com/trem/Dummyload.pdf

Many thanks, I had not seen this. It actually gave me an idea. I think I will add a 10k resistor in parallel to my 10K cathode on the trem lfo as a fast/slow switch. Will see how much effect this makes as it will change the gain on the tube, plus it will match my silkscreening

[Bombacaototal]

Dummyload successfully added the Tremonator to a 6G15. Did you ever see this...

https://sluckeyamps.com/trem/Dummyload.pdf

Many thanks, I had not seen this. It actually gave me an idea. I think I will add a 10k resistor in parallel to my 10K cathode on the trem lfo as a fast/slow switch. Will see how much effect this makes as it will change the gain on the tube, plus it will match my silkscreening

Just tried, but made little difference, decided to use the opportunity to completely remove the range circuit for now. Will try to think of other ideas on how to use the switch

[sluckey]

I originally had a 4.7K cathode resistor but later changed to 10K. I don't remember why. That 10K cathode has nothing to do with speed. Its purpose is to keep the LFO running even when the footswitch has the Vactrol disabled. You could remove the 10K completely. Downside is the LFO 'may' be slow to start up. Upside is there will be no tick when the trem is off. Worth a try.

You could use the range switch to turn the trem on/off when there's no footswitch.

[Bombacaototal]

I originally had a 4.7K cathode resistor but later changed to 10K. I don't remember why. That 10K cathode has nothing to do with speed. Its purpose is to keep the LFO running even when the footswitch has the Vactrol disabled. You could remove the 10K completely. Downside is the LFO 'may' be slow to start up. Upside is there will be no tick when the trem is off. Worth a try.

You could use the range switch to turn the trem on/off when there's no footswitch.

Thanks for the suggestions. I just had the idea to add the 5.1M across the speed via the switch, that way I have 3M and 1.9M