Looking for what seems to be unprimed linen or canvas material used to cover a ‘52 National 1215 amp. Back panels missing so trying to make these.
Weave is pretty coarse - about 19-20 threads/in. Shellac finish. See pics.
So far, striking out with most materials I’ve been able to find. Someone suggested finding old luggage to cannibalize. Maybe easiest route but would prefer to find the material IF I CAN.
50’s Cab Covering material
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: 50’s Cab Covering material
Three things for your consideration:
https://www.sailrite.com/Heavy-Waxed-Ca ... axEALw_wcB
https://acousticalsolutions.com/product ... oVEALw_wcB
https://diyardage.com/1000-denier-cordu ... X5EALw_wcB
I searched for "canvas tolex covering"
https://www.sailrite.com/Heavy-Waxed-Ca ... axEALw_wcB
https://acousticalsolutions.com/product ... oVEALw_wcB
https://diyardage.com/1000-denier-cordu ... X5EALw_wcB
I searched for "canvas tolex covering"
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Re: 50’s Cab Covering material
Nice. Please post results!
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Re: 50’s Cab Covering material
Go to a art supply store and check out a new white canvas that is big enough to supply your rear panel needs.
Yes, just like any blank picture canvas you will have to paint it the color you need.
I would not use a acrylic paint, household wall paint or enamel for this, but I might consider a custom Lacquer mix from a auto paint shop, but is expensive ( only available in qts or gal ) and would have to be sprayed on
I would mix up a oil paint to best match what you need and then thin the heck out of it with Turpenoid so it gets into the fabric.
The fabric you use is important, it must not be synthetic!!!
Yes, oil based paint will take a week or so to dry completely even when thinned out a lot, but then you can use a spray Varnish to permanently seal it.
This what I have done time and time again over 3 decades for coverings like this.
The last thing I did like this was to recover my 1955 Hickok 600A tube testers case, it was a fun rewarding project!
Yes, just like any blank picture canvas you will have to paint it the color you need.
I would not use a acrylic paint, household wall paint or enamel for this, but I might consider a custom Lacquer mix from a auto paint shop, but is expensive ( only available in qts or gal ) and would have to be sprayed on
I would mix up a oil paint to best match what you need and then thin the heck out of it with Turpenoid so it gets into the fabric.
The fabric you use is important, it must not be synthetic!!!
Yes, oil based paint will take a week or so to dry completely even when thinned out a lot, but then you can use a spray Varnish to permanently seal it.
This what I have done time and time again over 3 decades for coverings like this.
The last thing I did like this was to recover my 1955 Hickok 600A tube testers case, it was a fun rewarding project!
When I die, I want to go like my Grandfather did, peacefully in his sleep.
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Re: 50’s Cab Covering material
Stevem, interesting suggestion!
Would it be possible to dye the canvas? It would dry in a day. Then, how about shellac followed by lacquer instead of varnish? Shellac and lacquer both dry quickly. I'm thinking, apply the dyed canvas to the cab, then spray or brush the shellac and lacquer afterward. This solves any problem that the canvas get brittle after applying the finish coats. I guess I'm asking why you believe oil based varnish or paint (now very hard to get) is important.
Would it be possible to dye the canvas? It would dry in a day. Then, how about shellac followed by lacquer instead of varnish? Shellac and lacquer both dry quickly. I'm thinking, apply the dyed canvas to the cab, then spray or brush the shellac and lacquer afterward. This solves any problem that the canvas get brittle after applying the finish coats. I guess I'm asking why you believe oil based varnish or paint (now very hard to get) is important.
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- Posts: 4730
- Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:01 pm
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Re: 50’s Cab Covering material
I used what I had on hand and was already very comfortable with, that being the oil based paints.
I though about going for using dye's, but then realized that thinning out a oil paint a whole lot would be the same thing basically, you would maybe just need more coats so to speak.
As with anything like this it best to do a practice run first, especially if you need a dark color because then you need to play around with how much you thin out the oil paint.
I should have noted that once you get the color in the canvas you need you should the apply it to your cabinet or panels before you varnish of shellac the stuff.
I though about going for using dye's, but then realized that thinning out a oil paint a whole lot would be the same thing basically, you would maybe just need more coats so to speak.
As with anything like this it best to do a practice run first, especially if you need a dark color because then you need to play around with how much you thin out the oil paint.
I should have noted that once you get the color in the canvas you need you should the apply it to your cabinet or panels before you varnish of shellac the stuff.
When I die, I want to go like my Grandfather did, peacefully in his sleep.
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Re: 50’s Cab Covering material
I have tried the art supplies route and unprimed linen canvas of varying weights/weaves with no luck. Canvas duck in heavier weight seems closest but not quite a match. Will post more re the trial-and-error journey and hopefully any Eureka! moment.