5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
Just fired up my new build – I'm a bit puzzled by my voltage readings and was hoping some of you fine folks could point me in the right direction.
Here's the schematic:
I'm using Hammond iron (290AX + 1750E). The PT has two high voltage taps, 550-0-550 and 650-0-650. Because I'm running a solid state rectifier I figured the 550 tap would get me in the ballpark of my desired B+ of 350 DC. As you can see I've added a few other mods to the circuit, mainly for my own research purposes (most mods were taken from RobRob's site):
- 10K grid stoppers for minimal HF rolloff
- "lead channel" mod on V1B with 220K plate resistor, 22nF coupling cap, and switchable bias/bypass on cathode
- 1Meg "sweet pot" variable grid stopper into the phase inverter
- 470 ohm screen resistors
- diode rectifier + 750 ohm sag resistor
Originally I had also wired up an SPDT switch to the V2A cathode for the options: bypassed cathode / unbypassed cathode / unbypassed + 56K NFB. But unfortunately the switch busted. I cleared out the unnecessary components and it's currently just a solder point for the 1.5K bias resistor. Schematic has been updated to reflect the current build.
Here are my voltages to ground:
PT high voltage = 290 VAC each side
B+ (after diodes) = 318 VDC
B+ (after sag resistor) = 274 (VDC etc)
B+ screen node = 249
B+ preamp node = 191
V3/V4 plate = 270
V3/V4 screen = 249
V3/V4 cathode = 16
V1A plate = 100
V1A cathode = 1.36
V1B plate = 104
V1B cathode = 1.87
V2A plate = 127
V2A cathode = 0.95
V2B plate = 153
V2B grid = 15
V2B cathode = 37
As you can see, my B+ and plate voltages are quite low, around 50-75 volts lower than I was expecting. The unloaded B+ (no tubes installed) is 413 DC, which seems reasonable, I just wasn't expecting to drop 100 volts with loading. Also I'm dropping a lot more across the sag resistor than I thought I would.
Initially I thought that the 6V6s might be biased too hot, pulling down the B+. But according to RobRob's bias calculator I'm at around 45% or 6.5 watts per tube which is pretty dang cool for cathode bias.
Of course, I could try hooking up the 650 AC taps instead, but it seems wrong to me – those are supposed to be the correct taps for a 5Y3 rectifier, right? Am I missing something?
I dig the sound of the amp currently, though it is relatively quiet, I guess due to the low plate voltages. Not bedroom levels, but still noticeably quieter than my SF princeton reverb.
Photos below. Thanks for your help in advance!
Here's the schematic:
I'm using Hammond iron (290AX + 1750E). The PT has two high voltage taps, 550-0-550 and 650-0-650. Because I'm running a solid state rectifier I figured the 550 tap would get me in the ballpark of my desired B+ of 350 DC. As you can see I've added a few other mods to the circuit, mainly for my own research purposes (most mods were taken from RobRob's site):
- 10K grid stoppers for minimal HF rolloff
- "lead channel" mod on V1B with 220K plate resistor, 22nF coupling cap, and switchable bias/bypass on cathode
- 1Meg "sweet pot" variable grid stopper into the phase inverter
- 470 ohm screen resistors
- diode rectifier + 750 ohm sag resistor
Originally I had also wired up an SPDT switch to the V2A cathode for the options: bypassed cathode / unbypassed cathode / unbypassed + 56K NFB. But unfortunately the switch busted. I cleared out the unnecessary components and it's currently just a solder point for the 1.5K bias resistor. Schematic has been updated to reflect the current build.
Here are my voltages to ground:
PT high voltage = 290 VAC each side
B+ (after diodes) = 318 VDC
B+ (after sag resistor) = 274 (VDC etc)
B+ screen node = 249
B+ preamp node = 191
V3/V4 plate = 270
V3/V4 screen = 249
V3/V4 cathode = 16
V1A plate = 100
V1A cathode = 1.36
V1B plate = 104
V1B cathode = 1.87
V2A plate = 127
V2A cathode = 0.95
V2B plate = 153
V2B grid = 15
V2B cathode = 37
As you can see, my B+ and plate voltages are quite low, around 50-75 volts lower than I was expecting. The unloaded B+ (no tubes installed) is 413 DC, which seems reasonable, I just wasn't expecting to drop 100 volts with loading. Also I'm dropping a lot more across the sag resistor than I thought I would.
Initially I thought that the 6V6s might be biased too hot, pulling down the B+. But according to RobRob's bias calculator I'm at around 45% or 6.5 watts per tube which is pretty dang cool for cathode bias.
Of course, I could try hooking up the 650 AC taps instead, but it seems wrong to me – those are supposed to be the correct taps for a 5Y3 rectifier, right? Am I missing something?
I dig the sound of the amp currently, though it is relatively quiet, I guess due to the low plate voltages. Not bedroom levels, but still noticeably quieter than my SF princeton reverb.
Photos below. Thanks for your help in advance!
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Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
The 290AX is 275-0-275 or 325-0-325. Your voltages seem reasonable with that 750Ω sag resistor. If you want more voltage, decrease that sag resistor.
https://www.hammfg.com/files/parts/pdf/ ... 1709681208
Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
I think you're losing it in your dropping resistor. 750 ohms seems pretty big there. How did you come up with that value?
I started to get out the spreadsheets, but the dropper is where I'd look first.
You beat me to it sluckey. Drop the dropper.
I started to get out the spreadsheets, but the dropper is where I'd look first.
You beat me to it sluckey. Drop the dropper.
"It's not what we don't know that gets us in trouble. It's what we know for sure that just ain't so"
Mark Twain
Mark Twain
Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
The voltage on those transformers is going to drop more than you would expect under load, even without the big sag resistor. It is a champ transformer. No harm going to the higher voltage winding if decreasing the sag resistor isn’t enough for you. I built a couple PP cathode biased 6v6 amps with that transformer a while ago, expected to have way more voltage than I got.
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Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
As mentioned swap over to the 325 volt windings.
That should get you 455 volts to mess with before that dropping resistor.
Two good things come from this right off the bat.
1) dropping more voltage gives better ripple rejection.
2) now your using that full amount of that copper winding the PT has to provid that 100 ma .
One thing I would like to note with you is how long your PI wires to your output tube grids are.
Runs that long open the door to oscillation issues and degraded tone.
If that build was mine I would add another terminal strip near each output tube socket and then move the PI uncoupling caps from that board right over to pin 5 and each new terminal strip.
This will lenghten each plate wire, but much more importantly shorten the grid wires down to nothing.
Grid wires act like Antennas and will pick up other signals, so the shorter the better.
This short grid wire thing applies throughout the whole amp.
That should get you 455 volts to mess with before that dropping resistor.
Two good things come from this right off the bat.
1) dropping more voltage gives better ripple rejection.
2) now your using that full amount of that copper winding the PT has to provid that 100 ma .
One thing I would like to note with you is how long your PI wires to your output tube grids are.
Runs that long open the door to oscillation issues and degraded tone.
If that build was mine I would add another terminal strip near each output tube socket and then move the PI uncoupling caps from that board right over to pin 5 and each new terminal strip.
This will lenghten each plate wire, but much more importantly shorten the grid wires down to nothing.
Grid wires act like Antennas and will pick up other signals, so the shorter the better.
This short grid wire thing applies throughout the whole amp.
When I die, I want to go like my Grandfather did, peacefully in his sleep.
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
I have not tried it myself, but have taken note that often sag resistors for SS rectified amps are inserted between the transformer & the diodes.
See Vox schematic below, R72 & R73:
See Vox schematic below, R72 & R73:
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Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
They are indeed, but they don't have to be. Ignoring the heating/power dissipation considerations for a moment, it makes no difference at all. In a full-wave-center-tap setup, the diodes conduct alternately, There isn't any simultaneous conduction, so the resistor(s) being before or after the diodes makes no difference to the circuit action.
I think maybe the separation of one resistor into two, one in series with each diode, may be done for heat dissipation reasons, as it spreads the heat over two devices.
"It's not what we don't know that gets us in trouble. It's what we know for sure that just ain't so"
Mark Twain
Mark Twain
Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
Thanks for all the replies.
So, I pulled the resistor and everything is looking a lot better. AC high voltage 285, B+ 361, 6V6 plates 355, screens 327, cathodes 22. The bias calculator has me at 12.W / 85% dissipation which looks pretty good to me.
I'm curious as to what's happening on a theoretical level here. Prior to removing the resistor, my voltage off the diodes was 312, but now it's jumped up to 361. I understand the voltage drop across the resistor, but I don't follow why the voltage BEFORE the resistor would increase once the resistor is removed.
Now that my voltages are up to spec, at high gain settings I'm getting some shrieking oscillation as expected. The run from the 2nd stage --> "sweet pot" --> PI grid seems to be the culprit, so I'll move the sweet pot to the rear of the chassis. And I like your idea of relocating the output tube coupling caps to terminal strips near the sockets.
Copy that, sluckey -- forgot to halve the voltages per side. Got my wires crossed so to speak!
Good question. I seem to recall reading somewhere -- though I've lost the source -- that 750 ohms was as big as you'd want to go. Naturally, I was hoping for the "most sag" given the fact I'm building with diodes, but I didn't factor in the major voltage drop. Of course, it could also have been a typo on my end, as it looks like 150 is a more common value.
So, I pulled the resistor and everything is looking a lot better. AC high voltage 285, B+ 361, 6V6 plates 355, screens 327, cathodes 22. The bias calculator has me at 12.W / 85% dissipation which looks pretty good to me.
I'm curious as to what's happening on a theoretical level here. Prior to removing the resistor, my voltage off the diodes was 312, but now it's jumped up to 361. I understand the voltage drop across the resistor, but I don't follow why the voltage BEFORE the resistor would increase once the resistor is removed.
This is interesting. This transformer is rated for 100mA on the high voltage secondaries -- are you saying that a 200 or 300mA trafo would come closer to the ideal (AC x √2) voltage that you'd expect from a SS rectifier? If so, why is that the case?
Are you saying that the 275V winding doesn't deliver as much current as the 325V? I just assumed that both windings would be rated at 100mA.Stevem wrote: ↑Thu Jun 05, 2025 10:21 am As mentioned swap over to the 325 volt windings.
That should get you 455 volts to mess with before that dropping resistor.
Two good things come from this right off the bat.
1) dropping more voltage gives better ripple rejection.
2) now your using that full amount of that copper winding the PT has to provid that 100 ma .
This is actually the first thing I noticed when I got the board and sockets installed. In my initial layout I didn't account for the long run from the PI coupling caps to the 6V6 grids, so I was a little disappointed once I got all the components wired in.
Now that my voltages are up to spec, at high gain settings I'm getting some shrieking oscillation as expected. The run from the 2nd stage --> "sweet pot" --> PI grid seems to be the culprit, so I'll move the sweet pot to the rear of the chassis. And I like your idea of relocating the output tube coupling caps to terminal strips near the sockets.
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Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
No, the higher voltage winding uses the whole copper wire that makes up that winding while delivering 100 ma , also its running cooler and in turn so will the whole PT .
As temps go up so does the resistance in a wire and voltages then drop.
In terms of your oscillation issue , first try swapping the blue and Brown wires on pin 3 of each output tube.
If the shirick gets worse then you have the output phase right and can move on what’s going on in that 2nd gain stage.
As temps go up so does the resistance in a wire and voltages then drop.
In terms of your oscillation issue , first try swapping the blue and Brown wires on pin 3 of each output tube.
If the shirick gets worse then you have the output phase right and can move on what’s going on in that 2nd gain stage.
When I die, I want to go like my Grandfather did, peacefully in his sleep.
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
Turns out my memory was a little off, I was using the Mojo/Hoeber version of that transformer, not Hammond. I don't have a record of what the voltages ended up being, but I remember expecting somewhere around 450v and getting significantly less... And now checking Mojotone for numbers, it appears they only have the unloaded voltage listed... Hammond is kind enough to list both and say which is which. So, just me being dumb and expecting better documentation. No, I wouldn't recommend using a transformer bigger than you need.wrongtube wrote: ↑Thu Jun 05, 2025 9:07 pm maxkracht wrote: ↑Wed Jun 04, 2025 9:33 pm
The voltage on those transformers is going to drop more than you would expect under load, even without the big sag resistor.
This is interesting. This transformer is rated for 100mA on the high voltage secondaries -- are you saying that a 200 or 300mA trafo would come closer to the ideal (AC x √2) voltage that you'd expect from a SS rectifier? If so, why is that the case?
Re: 5E3 with SS rectifier, low voltages
It is better to think of it as a "blackface Princeton transformer" because as Hammond's version of a 125P1B, it is sized for a pair of 6V6s.
Having measured the real thing in a 1965 Vibro Champ, I can tell you the Vibro Champ "uses a too-big Princeton power transformer," and not the other way around (with "a Princeton using an under-sized Champ transformer").
The 1750E is Hammond's take on a 5E3 Deluxe OT, right? 8.5kΩ primary, 8Ω secondary, rated for "12 watts."
AC Volts on Secondary: 12w across 8Ω --> Volts = √(8Ω x 12w) = ~9.8v RMS
AC Volts on Primary: 9.8V RMS x [√(8500Ω/8Ω)] = 9.8v RMS x 32.596 = 319v
RMS Current for 12w: 12w / 319v RMS = 37.5mA RMS
----> each 6V6 needs to idle at 38mA or a bit more; allow another 4-6mA for 6V6 screens, and 4-6mA for preamp: 88mA for the B+ winding is "plenty."
By the way, most build wind up with too much voltage, and folks implement hamfisted moves to knock down volts. So you're already way ahead by having less B+ present.
In a vacuum, it seems like this stuff would matter.
In a practical build, it does not. But the higher voltage output does matter, because as noted above, folks then try to knock down the B+, or raise cathode resistor values, etc. A cathode biased amp works better when a needlessly high B+ is avoided from the outset.