D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
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- Funkalicousgroove
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D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
The first thing I do is make the boards, I Cut the G-10 on a big 1950's school paper cutter, but you could also use a saw if you like.
The board that is upright is 1 3/8" by 7"
The power supply is 2 1/2" by 4 1/2" In comparison to the real one it looks like it has a little bit wider board, possibly 5 1/2" or so, not that it makes any difference in sound or performance.
After I cut the boards I drill them out, I did my hole pattern on graph paper that is divided in 1/10" segments, and "eyeballed" the placement of components, and of course I used the components in hand to make sure it fit.
The board that is upright is 1 3/8" by 7"
The power supply is 2 1/2" by 4 1/2" In comparison to the real one it looks like it has a little bit wider board, possibly 5 1/2" or so, not that it makes any difference in sound or performance.
After I cut the boards I drill them out, I did my hole pattern on graph paper that is divided in 1/10" segments, and "eyeballed" the placement of components, and of course I used the components in hand to make sure it fit.
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- Noel Grassy
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
Funk, When you say, "paper cutter", do you mean one of those things withe blade that pivots at one end and a handle at the other end you cleave down with? The board doesn' crack up and splinter? I've gotta try this, I've got one of those old 50's ones I used to make bindles with.
All excellent things are as difficult as they are rare__B Spinoza
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
the next step is to mark and drill the mounting holes in the boards and the bottom plate of the chassis. I use Keystone brackets, they come in a variety of sizes. www.keyelco.com
I use a white paint pen to mark the black chassis it has a tip the size of a gel pen and is very clean to use. I think a silver sharpie would work fine as well, so long as you can see it against the black.
I also mark and drill the two ground points.
After That is done, I mark the front and back pannel for drilling. I draw a line across the center of each pannel with a pencil, then I use my digital caliper to measure each point to mark.
Each point is marked with a center punch to insure precision drilling.
Pots are 1.25" apart, switches are 1" from pots, Jacks are spaced at 1"
the power and stby are .75" apart, and the pilot is 1.5" from those.
I use a white paint pen to mark the black chassis it has a tip the size of a gel pen and is very clean to use. I think a silver sharpie would work fine as well, so long as you can see it against the black.
I also mark and drill the two ground points.
After That is done, I mark the front and back pannel for drilling. I draw a line across the center of each pannel with a pencil, then I use my digital caliper to measure each point to mark.
Each point is marked with a center punch to insure precision drilling.
Pots are 1.25" apart, switches are 1" from pots, Jacks are spaced at 1"
the power and stby are .75" apart, and the pilot is 1.5" from those.
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Last edited by Funkalicousgroove on Sun Dec 09, 2007 3:21 am, edited 2 times in total.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
the next step is drilling the pannels, I use a step bit for the large holes, and then I finish them off with a hand nibbler, which is available from Most radio shack's. Be sure to wear a thick glove while nibbling to keep it from giving you blisters!
I suppose you could also use a jig saw, I prefer the precision of the nibbler.
I suppose you could also use a jig saw, I prefer the precision of the nibbler.
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Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
It only splinters on the side being cut off, so I cut them big and then trim to size, I have a little more loss than using a table saw, but this is quick and convenient.Noel Grassy wrote:Funk, When you say, "paper cutter", do you mean one of those things withe blade that pivots at one end and a handle at the other end you cleave down with? The board doesn' crack up and splinter? I've gotta try this, I've got one of those old 50's ones I used to make bindles with.
Yes the big curved blade with a spring loaded pivot at one end. There are many ways to cut the board, but there is no fiberglass dust this way.
I wouldn't try 1/8" board this way though.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
Next I load the boards and make the connections on the back side. I use type 225p caps, the 2PS caps used in some of the originals are impossible to find, and 600v caps are too big.
The larger caps like .47 and .22 are 200v for size, the .1 and .047 are 400v.
The larger caps like .47 and .22 are 200v for size, the .1 and .047 are 400v.
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Last edited by Funkalicousgroove on Sun Dec 09, 2007 3:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
and the power supply:
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- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
Next I assemble the chassis, and grind the paint off the ground points with a dremel. then I mount the boards, pots, jacks, switches, pilot light, etc.
After that, I wire the power supply, and the signal board grounds.
Next I wire the bright switches, then the ground busses, then the shielded cable.
I solder the backs of one of the pots to the ground bus because the individual pannels of the chassis are painted, and this connects them together, otherwise it makes a slight hum. This is the same reason that all the jack grounds are connected to the signal ground.
I use a balanced 12AX7, but I don't know how important that is.
The fuse is .5A fast acting.
After that, I wire the power supply, and the signal board grounds.
Next I wire the bright switches, then the ground busses, then the shielded cable.
I solder the backs of one of the pots to the ground bus because the individual pannels of the chassis are painted, and this connects them together, otherwise it makes a slight hum. This is the same reason that all the jack grounds are connected to the signal ground.
I use a balanced 12AX7, but I don't know how important that is.
The fuse is .5A fast acting.
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Last edited by Funkalicousgroove on Sun Dec 09, 2007 3:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
and more.
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Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
Nice!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing!
Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
Is that one mine??
Thanks Funk!!!
Thanks Funk!!!
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
VERY cool!!!
Thanks for posting that Funk.
Just out of curiosity, how much do you charge? I might be interested in purchasing one in a couple months.
Thanks for posting that Funk.
Just out of curiosity, how much do you charge? I might be interested in purchasing one in a couple months.
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
Thanks for the detailed info!
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.
Anaconda1126 wrote:VERY cool!!!
Thanks for posting that Funk.
Just out of curiosity, how much do you charge? I might be interested in purchasing one in a couple months.
A completed one? send me a PM.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works