OK! Different stuff. I see yours is like the vintage Fender stuff that absorbs water and warps.pompeiisneaks wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 5:11 pm This is the exact item I bought:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#85315k201/=18yb8ii
Garolite XX paper fabric phenolic resin
Drilling Eyelet board
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Hmm, well I may not want to use this stuff after I use it all up then! Dang! I guess the original intent on me getting that is that it is more like the original fenders? Oh well I spent like 50 bucks with shipping so I'm going to use the damn stuff
~Phil
~Phil
tUber Nerd!
Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Some of the boards have this shiny top coating that breaks away, I stopped using that stuff.
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
RPM... bit type and feed pressure, and depth setting. I'd try a faster speed... gentler feed and a fresh bit.
The other thing that happens is that its easy to make assumptions about securing the work on the machine bed.
the bit can pull the work up... and the bit can cup... with repeated work a hole will form under the work piece leaving a room for the
material to blow out.
you can use a counter sink bit to de-burr the fuzz.
The other thing that happens is that its easy to make assumptions about securing the work on the machine bed.
the bit can pull the work up... and the bit can cup... with repeated work a hole will form under the work piece leaving a room for the
material to blow out.
you can use a counter sink bit to de-burr the fuzz.
lazymaryamps
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Excellent info from everyone, thanks, I'll hopefully get much better at them, and I'll move to the solid FR4 type board next round I buy (That is if I don't move to just using a cnc to route out some paths in copper clad, I'm debating that as a next step).
~Phil
~Phil
tUber Nerd!
Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Drilling is not the only problem with that stuff. I highly recommend you put that fish paper board aside, cut your loses and get some good quality board that is proven to work with these high voltage circuits. Save that fish paper for your auto projects. Sounds like you have enough for several builds. That stuff tends to absorb moisture and will likely become conductive later on. The resistance will vary from point to point and it will cause weird symptoms that can be very difficult to isolate. And the cure ain't pretty unless you replace the entire board. $50 ain't a bad price for knowing the potential problems you may be setting yourself up for.
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Steve you just put the nail in the coffin, I ordered a sheet of the good stuff, sigh. another 30 bucks plus shipping so probably another 50, but I guess lesson learned
~Phil
~Phil
tUber Nerd!
Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Never look back. Sell it on eBay.
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Give a try to this kind of wood drill bit (note the point)....... The bottom side blew out on every hole.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Wood-Dri ... 2/p/168059
K
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Gratzie, I've got some normal ones that seem to work fine, except the material itself was somewhat 'crap' per sluckey
~Phil
~Phil
tUber Nerd!
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Okay this looks WAY better. Check this one out:
~Phil
~Phil
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
if your going to be drilling eyelet/turret boards and chassis, I really recommend using a drill press. When you see difference in the quality and efficiency of you work, you'll never go back. If you keep an eye on craigslist or facebook, you'll probably find a good deal to fit your budget.
I bought my first drill press on craigslist specifically so I could start an amp project and I did NOT have much money. I found someone selling a Delta 11-980 Benchtop for $65 (I think) and bought it. This was like the base model drill press of it's time. Think of it as a Fisher Price's "my first drill press", while still being an actual shop tool.
I refurbished the chuck, stripped down the whole press for cleaning and re-greasing and rebuilt it. I, not having the money for a high end model, wanted to get the most out of what this could do, and I was able to dial it into under .003" of runout. That's really good for what that press was.
I definitely believe it's worth spending money on high quality tools whenever you can. But, I tell you that story to illustrate that often you can find good value in inexpensive used equipment. Often a little bit of maintenance goes a long way to improving their performance.
I will echo 67plexi when it comes to drilling FR4 (fiber/epoxy) boards. Definitely go with carbide drills. The material is so abrasive, it will eat through your HSS. If your mostly working with thin laminates and sheet metal, stub drills(screw machine length) offer better precision since you don't need the added length of jobber drills.
I bought my first drill press on craigslist specifically so I could start an amp project and I did NOT have much money. I found someone selling a Delta 11-980 Benchtop for $65 (I think) and bought it. This was like the base model drill press of it's time. Think of it as a Fisher Price's "my first drill press", while still being an actual shop tool.
I refurbished the chuck, stripped down the whole press for cleaning and re-greasing and rebuilt it. I, not having the money for a high end model, wanted to get the most out of what this could do, and I was able to dial it into under .003" of runout. That's really good for what that press was.
I definitely believe it's worth spending money on high quality tools whenever you can. But, I tell you that story to illustrate that often you can find good value in inexpensive used equipment. Often a little bit of maintenance goes a long way to improving their performance.
I will echo 67plexi when it comes to drilling FR4 (fiber/epoxy) boards. Definitely go with carbide drills. The material is so abrasive, it will eat through your HSS. If your mostly working with thin laminates and sheet metal, stub drills(screw machine length) offer better precision since you don't need the added length of jobber drills.
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Re: Drilling Eyelet board
I definitely love using my drill press. It makes it pretty fast work.
~Phil
~Phil
tUber Nerd!
Re: Drilling Eyelet board
Somewhat late for thethread, but here´s my take:
1) I have used phenolic `paper boards since forever (47 years and counting), the first decades because nothing else was available, later because I found anything containing glass is a strong abrasive which eats metal drills for breakfast, so forget it.
2) I use a drill press, speed as high as possible and *sharp* drills, and have no problem at all.
If real sharp, no need for backing, but in any case it´s a good precaution.
The material removal method must be cutting with a sharp edge, not punching through with a dull one.
1) I have used phenolic `paper boards since forever (47 years and counting), the first decades because nothing else was available, later because I found anything containing glass is a strong abrasive which eats metal drills for breakfast, so forget it.
2) I use a drill press, speed as high as possible and *sharp* drills, and have no problem at all.
If real sharp, no need for backing, but in any case it´s a good precaution.
The material removal method must be cutting with a sharp edge, not punching through with a dull one.
Design/Make/Service Musical stuff in Buenos Aires, Argentina, since 1969