A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
Mr. Dumble also used 150k slope with .05 mid caps. If your after that Robben ford tone go with skyline. If you want more of a Carlso tone go with the classic. The most important thing to do is to keep your caps and resistors to the same type Mr. Dumble used
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
....Or that you tweak the caps and resistors to your guitar and playing style like Mr. Dumble didsplgeo wrote:Mr. Dumble also used 150k slope with .05 mid caps. If your after that Robben ford tone go with skyline. If you want more of a Carlso tone go with the classic. The most important thing to do is to keep your caps and resistors to the same type Mr. Dumble used
Diva or not? - Respect for Mr. D's work....)
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
I usually use Fender as a rough approximationjelle wrote:Wow, how do you simulations on that tone stack calculator? Did the Dumble tonestack get added?
Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
ah. You could use SPICE.
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
Thanks, I will look into it!jelle wrote:ah. You could use SPICE.
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
If using the exact skyline (1988 #124) tonestack with 250ka and .01uF for the mid, what difference does the slope 150k vs 100k make to the final sound
I am considering leaving mine at 100k like the 3rd generation including a higher treble cap
From the simulation it seems that the 150k has less gain but the tonestack slope curve looks identical to the 100k
Does anyone have sound samples of the original #124?
I am considering leaving mine at 100k like the 3rd generation including a higher treble cap
From the simulation it seems that the 150k has less gain but the tonestack slope curve looks identical to the 100k
Does anyone have sound samples of the original #124?
- norburybrook
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
from what I gleaned from building my #124 is that the 'original' spec version is just conjecture based on previous amps.
#124 when it was photographed and reverse engineered was the skyliner version shown in the schematics/layouts.
Marcus
#124 when it was photographed and reverse engineered was the skyliner version shown in the schematics/layouts.
Marcus
Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
the slope resistor allows more or less to go to the mid and bass controls, 150k less 100k more
Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
I'm just starting a #124 build and I can't find a replacement or a substitute for the Sprague Atom, TVA 1628 ,350V, 300µF capacitors. Does anyone here have a suggestion or a workaround for this?
- ijedouglas
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Re:#124 FAQ
This appears to be a dead link [October 2020] however, the content appears to have been ported over to https://thesubjectmatter.com/dumblearchive.html7) Are de-gooped pictures available?
Yes, here: ( www.roblivesey.com/dumble )
Stephen
www.primatone.eu
www.primatone.eu
Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
What are guys using for the 350k trim pot? thanks
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
Scraped 250k pot. Or just a normal 250k pot with a 330k preceding it. Works, unless you normally turn the trigger up to 10. Which most never do.
Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
I notice the schematic for the #124 calls for 0.1uF caps in the foot switch while the wiring diagram calls for 0.01uF caps in the foot switch. I'm curious if I'm reading this wrong? Regardless, I'm curious which way I should go? Also, I'm curious which voltage caps I would need? Would 100V do it? I see that's all that's on the manual switches. Thanks!
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Re: A Collection of #124 Information (Schematics, Layout, etc.)
Those caps are only there as snubbers for the DC supply feeding the relays to suppress the switch pops, .1uF are a reliable choice. I use them on both the chassis switches for the pedal and in the pedal as well. 100V rated would be more than enough.TimDude wrote: ↑Fri Sep 30, 2022 9:28 pm I notice the schematic for the #124 calls for 0.1uF caps in the foot switch while the wiring diagram calls for 0.01uF caps in the foot switch. I'm curious if I'm reading this wrong? Regardless, I'm curious which way I should go? Also, I'm curious which voltage caps I would need? Would 100V do it? I see that's all that's on the manual switches. Thanks!
https://cz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEM ... UB7Q%3D%3D
Stephen
Stephen
www.primatone.eu
www.primatone.eu