I had a nice visit with #94 today until...

[Aaron]

Don't know if original but Dumbleland #009 looks like it has the glued in nuts as well.

I use the nutserts. But don't use the ones that come in the kit, they're pretty soft. The first time I tried one, I squeezed to hard and stripped the thread.

Aaron

[Tubetastic]

If he doesn't want it drilled but doesn't mind the holes being widened, How about: Cage Nuts?

[Charlie Wilson]

Thanks Atomcap, my experience with JB Weld is that the mating surfaces need to be ruffed up for it to work. I use it to secure stand offs in stomp boxes. I don't know how well it would hold a smooth nut to the chassis.
CW

[da Geezer]

How about "U", "Spring" or "clip" nuts?
They're noninvasive and just slide into place....I use'm all the time
Do you have a grainger near you?

http://www.grainger.com/product/U-Nut-4CUG7

If not, Lowes, Home Depot, places like that usually have them in their "specialty" hardware drawers, or any good hardware store.

G

[Charlie Wilson]

Whoa, thanks Da Geezer. I like that idea. I work in the steel industry so I know Grainger well. The only issue may be that it won't line up with the existing hole when it is slid on.
CW

[jelle]

Nice one! That seems like the least invasive solution.

[martin manning]

I've looked into using this type of fastener and couldn't find any that would accommodate the necessary thickness of metal. They are made of vey hard steel and can't be forced.

[jelle]

These chassis are not very thick. Chances are that it will fit with a bit of RTV at the bottom to prevent it from sliding.

[da Geezer]

I've looked into using this type of fastener and couldn't find any that would accommodate the necessary thickness of metal. They are made of vey hard steel and can't be forced.

Measure the hole location and chassis thickness and see if any of these will work

http://www.grainger.com/content/cat_405_hexhead?page=62

[Dr-Joned]

I've looked into using this type of fastener and couldn't find any that would accommodate the necessary thickness of metal. They are made of vey hard steel and can't be forced.

Measure the hole location and chassis thickness and see if any of these will work

http://www.grainger.com/content/cat_405_hexhead?page=62

The "G Type" on this page will work with many different thicknesses. These are used in many audio and video racks.

[Gaz]

This one is what you want (but maybe not the right size):

http://www.mcmaster.com/#94850a120/=u2ifur

I've used these a lot. They are what Soldano uses, in fact.

[martin manning]

That looks like a winner!

[Charlie Wilson]

Thanks guys! That gives me some good options. Once I get this issue sorted out and can relax a little, I will do a more in depth study of the amp and post some voltages, component values, and some photos (I know there are already photos of the amp out there but I will try and take some never seen views of it).
CW

[ayan]

Charlie, Dumble himself did that on some amps. Dark grey epoxy glue? I've seen a couple of amps where the nuts were held in place using that method. In one of the amps, the nut had fallen off and gotten lost. What I did was grab a regular nut and do the same thing, i.e., epoxy glue it in place. That was about 10 years ago and as far as I know, it's working fine still. Yes, kind of less than stellar, if you ask me!

Cheers,

Gil

Hello all, I and #94 need your help. I customer of mine recently purchased #94 and brought it by the guitar shop were I work to have the European ac power cord plug replaced with a domestic one. I put the plug on and every thing was going great until I tried to remount the chassis in the head box. Apparently someone had previously crazy glued nuts under the upper chassis edge for the chassis mounting bolts to thread through. Luckily I had noticed that and barely had the mounting bolt threaded into the nut when it came off. I then pulled the chassis out and just by touching the other nuts they also fell off. So unfortunately I had to send the owner of a beautiful Dumble amp home with his chassis in a well padded cardboard box. So what options do I have to attach nuts to the chassis that don't include drilling holes for weld nuts? Also, I noticed that there are holes on the bottom edges of the chassis. Maybe the chassis was originally mounted Fender style? This customer is a very nice guy and has no problem with photos of his amp being taken or future further study of the amp. Oh yeah, the HT taper cap is a .o2.
CW

[Charlie Wilson]

Gil, the glue holding these nuts on was clear, it looks like clear epoxy or crazy glue. The chassis bolts are metric(Germany?) and look a little too fresh for a thirty or so years old amp, I just couldn't believe that the nuts were falling off just by touching them. The thing I really can't figure out though, is the holes on the lower lip of the chassis.
CW